This crochet cardigan free pattern will help you add variety to your wardrobe. It comes in sizes Small to 3XL.
You can make it in a self-striping yarn like I did or in a single color of your choice. Yardage requirements for both options are provided in the pattern.
The crochet cardigan features a beautiful lacy stitch perfect for the warmer weather ahead. I hope you will enjoy making it.
If you are looking for a warmer cardigan for fall or winter, you can also check out my long cardigan crochet pattern.
Crochet Cardigan Free Pattern
Pin it for later: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/51087777012582306/
Materials
1. Lion Brand Mandala Baby yarn in color Wishing Well. You can use any DK (size 3) yarn of the same thickness.
2. Size G(4.25mm) for the cardigan and size F(3.75mm) for the sleeve edging and collar. Use any size hook to attain gauge.
3. Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
Finished Size
All measurements are in inches. The cardigan has a 3/4th sleeve and the sleeve measurement is taken from the drop shoulder seam.
Size | Fits Bust | Back Panel Width | Length When Worn | Sleeve Length |
---|---|---|---|---|
S | 34" | 17" | 29" | 12.5" |
M | 38" | 19" | 29" | 12.5" |
L | 42" | 21.5" | 30" | 13" |
XL | 46" | 23" | 30" | 13" |
2XL | 50" | 25" | 31.5" | 13.5" |
3XL | 54" | 27.5" | 31.5" | 13.5" |
Yardage
Note: If using LB Mandala for your cardigan, you will need more yarn to adjust the color changes as opposed to making it in a single color.
S and M: 3 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala. If using one color yarn you will need around 1500 yards.
L: 4 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala. If using one color yarn you will need around 2200 yards
XL: 5 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala. If using one color yarn you will need around 2200 yards
2XL and 3XL: 6 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala. If using one color yarn you will need around 2800 yards.
Stitch Abbreviations
The pattern is written in US terms.
ch-chain
sc– single crochet
dc– double crochet
hdc– half double crochet
tch-turning chain
RS– Right Side of your Cardigan
beg ch– beginning chain
Stitch Explanations
V-st: (dc, ch1, dc) worked into the same ch or st.
Shell: Two V-sts worked into adjacent chs or sts form a shell.
Gauge
With G(4.25mm) hook, 3.5 shells X 8 shell Rows= 4 inches
Related Crochet Cardigan Patterns
Lacy Crochet Cardigan Pattern for Summer
Baby Cardigan Pattern(Paid Pattern)
Free Crochet Pattern for Baby Cardigan
Crochet Cardigan Pattern
Note: Stitch counts for bigger sizes are given in the order S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL).
BACK PANEL
The back panel is worked bottom-up. The front panel is then worked as a continuation of the back panel from the shoulder down to the hem.
After both the front panels are complete, you seam the sides leaving a gap for the armholes. The sleeves are then worked directly on to the body of the cardigan.
You then go ahead and add a few more rows to the hem to add length to your cardigan and match the color changes on the sleeves. The cardigan is finished with a small collar edging in matching colors to complete the look.
Ch 94(106, 118, 124, 136, 148)
Row 1: 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, *[sk next 4 chs, V-st in each of the next 2 chs], repeat from * across to last 5 chs, sk next 4 chs, V-st in last ch, turn. ——–14(16, 18, 19, 21, 23) shells+ 2 V-sts
Row 2: Ch 4 ( counts as a dc plus ch 1 throughout the pattern), 1 dc in first dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk next 2 dc and next ch, V-st in next ch, turn. ——–14(16, 18, 19, 21, 23) shells+ 2 V-sts
Repeat Row 2 until the back panel has a total of 42(42, 43, 43, 44, 44) shell rows. The back panel measured approximately 21( 21, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 22) inches long now.
The stitch pattern will stretch when you wear it to give you added length. You will also be adding a few more shell rows to the hem after you seam the sides. Do not fasten off. We will continue to work on one of the front panels.
FRONT PANELS
Note: The first front panel is worked as a continuation of the back panel. You then fasten off, leave a gap for the neck at the back, and work the second front panel.
First Front Panel
Row 1: Ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a total of 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells, sk next 2 dc, V-st in next dc, leave the remaining sts unworked and turn.———–6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells+2 V-sts
Row 2: Ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a total of 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells, sk next 2 dc and next ch, V-st in next ch, turn.——6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells+2 V-sts
Repeat Row 2 until your front panel has 42(42, 43, 43, 44, 44) shell rows just like your back panel and fasten off. The front panel will stretch longer than the back as it is narrow. That is okay as it will give a small depression for your neck at the backside as shown in the pic 3 above.
Second Front Panel
Notes
1. When making the second front panel, take care to match the color changes with the first front panel. You can easily pull out a bunch of colors from the yarn cake as shown in pic 5 above.
2. There will be a small gap between the two front panels.
Row 1: Sk 4(4, 4, 8, 8, 8) dc from where the first front panel ends as shown in pic 6 and 7 above, sl to next dc, Ch 4 ( counts as a dc plus ch 1 throughout), 1 dc in the same dc where you just worked the ch 4, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a total of 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells, sk next 2 dc, and next ch, V-st in next ch, turn.——-6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells+2 V-sts
Row 2: Ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a total of 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells, sk next 2 dc and next ch, V-st in next ch, turn.——-6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10)shells+2 V-sts
Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 42(42, 43, 43, 44, 44) shell rows and fasten off.
SEAMING THE SIDES
Take a good look at your crochet fabric and choose the more appealing side as your Right Side(RS). Keeping the RS facing down, fold the 2 front panels down, align the hem. You will have a small depression for the neck.
NOTE: To mark shell rows, I counted the turning chains on the edge as each turning chain corresponds to one shell row.
From the shoulder, count 12.5(12.5, 14.5, 14.5, 16.5, 16.5) shell rows and place a marker going through both the layers to indicate the armpit. Make sure that the backside of the armhole also has the same number of shells. See pic 8 above.
You will now have a total of 25(25, 29, 29, 33, 33) shell rows marked for the armhole in the shoulder area. The armhole gap should be approximately 7(7, 8, 8,9, 9) inches deep.
Leave the marked area for the armhole and seam the sides shut with a row of sc. Work the sc sts inserting the hook into the leg of the dc or the turning chain and not into the ch spaces. I worked 2 sc in each dc leg and one sc at the junction between 2 dc.
SLEEVES
Notes
1. I started the sleeves with shades of blue from the shoulder down.
2. Turn your cardigan inside out after seaming. The sleeves will be worked on the RS of your cardigan.
3. Reminder: tch stands for the turning chain. When the pattern says to work into the top of a tch, you work into the junction between that tch and the next tch as shown in pic 9 above.
4. You can find a video on how to work the first round of the sleeves at the end of this blog post.
Round 1: Sl st to the armpit, Ch 4 (counts as a dc plus ch 1 throughout), 1 dc at the same point as ch-4, 2 V-sts on top of next tch to form a shell, *(sk next tch, 2 V-sts on top of next tch), repeat from * until you have 2 tch left before the armpit, sk the last two tchs, V-st in the armpit, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not Turn.————13(13, 15, 15, 17, 17) shells
Round 2: Ch 4, 1 dc in same st as ch 4, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk next 2 dc, V-st in last dc at the armpit, sl st to top of beg ch-3. Do not Turn.————13(13, 15, 15, 17, 17) shells
Note: In the next round, we eliminate the chs from the V-sts at the armpit.
Round 3: Ch 3( counts as a dc), 1 dc in same st, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in last dc at the armpit, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not Turn.————12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells+ 4 dc at armpit
Note: In the next round, we reduce 2 dc sts at the armpit.
Round 4: Ch 3, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk next 2 dc, 1 dc in last st at the armpit, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not Turn.————12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells+ 2 dc at armpit
Round 5: Ch 3, sk next dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in last st at the armpit, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not Turn.————12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells+ 2 dc at armpit
Rounds 6& 7: Repeat Round 5 above.
Round 8: Sl st into next dc, next ch, and into next dc, Ch 4, 1 dc in same st as ch-4, V-st in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk next dc, dc2tog in next 2 dc sts at the armpit, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not turn. ——-12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells+ 1 dc at armpit
Round 9: Sk the next ch-1 and sl st directly into the next dc, Ch 4, 1 dc in same st as ch-4, V-st in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk next dc, 1 dc in last dc at the armpit, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not turn. ——-12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells+ 1 dc at armpit
Round 10: Repeat Round 9 above.
Note: In the next round we will eliminate the ch 1 in the first and the last shells.
Round 11: Sk the next ch-1 and sl st directly into the next dc, Ch 3, 1 dc in same st as ch-3, 2 dc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you have one shell left, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc in last dc at the armpit, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not turn. ——-10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14) shells+ 9 dc near the armpit
Rounds 12- 15: Repeat Round 11
Note: In the next round we will eliminate the dc at the armpit.
Round 16: Sl st directly into the next dc, Ch 3, 1 dc in same st as ch-3, 2 dc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you have one shell left, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 2 sts, sk next 3 dc, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not turn. ——-10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14)+ 8 dc near the armpit
Round 17: Sl st directly into the next dc, Ch 3, 1 dc in same st as ch-3, 2 dc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you have one shell left, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 2 sts, sk next 2 dc, sl st to beg ch-3. Do not turn. ——-10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14)+ 8 dc near the armpit
Round 18-21(sizes S/M Only): Repeat Round 17 above.
Round 18-22(sizes L/XL only): Repeat Round 17 above.
Round 18-23(sizes 2XL/3XL only): Repeat Round 17 above.
Round 22(22, 23, 23, 24, 24): Ch 1 (counts as a sc), 1 sc in each st and ch across to end, sl st to beg ch-1. Do not Turn. Fasten off.
SLEEVE CUFF-All Sizes
Note: Switch to the smaller 3.75mm hook.
Rounds 1: With cream color, sl st right before fastening off point, ch 2 ( counts as a hdc), 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to beg ch-2. Do not turn. Fasten off after Round 24.
Repeat the above round in cream color 1(1, 2, 2, 2, 2) more times and fasten off.
Next Round: With beige color, sl st right before fastening off point, ch 1( not counted as a st), 1 sc in same st, ch 1, sk 1, *( 1 sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st), repeat from * to end, after skipping last st, sl st to 1st sc. Do not turn.
Last Round: *(Sc, ch 2, sc in next ch -1 space, sk the next sc), repeat from * until you work in the last ch-1 space, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Make the second sleeve following the same pattern. Take care to use the same colors as the first sleeve.
ADDING TO THE HEM- All sizes
Notes
1. We will now add a few more shell rows to the hem of your cardigan to match the color colors on the sleeve and tie all the colors together.
Row 1: With cream color yarn and bigger 4.25mm hook, sl st to the corner of your front panel on the RS, ch 4, 1 dc in same st, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell on the front panel, 1 V-st in the st right before the side seam, 1 V-st in the st right after the side seam.
Continue to work along the base of the back panel where you will have the shells turned upwards. Insert your hook into the leg of the dc sts while working your shells.
Work a V-st in the middle 2 dc of the next shell and each shell across on the back panel, when you reach the side seam, 1 V-st in the st right before the side seam, 1 V-st in the st right after the side seam, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell on the front panel, sk next 2 dc, V-st in last st at the corner, turn.——-28(32, 36, 37, 41, 45)shells+ 2 V-sts
Row 2: Ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, *(sk next 2 dc, V-st in each of the next 2 dc), repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell, sk next 2 dc and next ch, V-st in next ch, turn. ——–28(32, 36, 37, 41, 45)shells+ 2 V-sts
Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8) cream rows and Join beige color yarn.
Repeat Row 2 with beige color yarn 1(1, 1, 1, 2, 2)more times. Fasten off.
COLLAR
Notes
1. Switch back to the smaller 3.75mm hook for the collar.
2. For Row 1, to work your sc sts, insert your hook into the leg of the tch or dc sts and NOT into the chain spaces.
Row 1: With cream color yarn sl st to the corner of your front panel on the RS, ch 1, 1sc in the corner, work sc sts evenly across the first front panel, back of the neck, and down along the edge of the next front panel to the next corner, turn. I worked 2 sc into the leg of each tch and 1 sc at the junction of 2 tchs.
Row 2: Ch 2(does not count as a st), 1 hdc in same st as ch 2, 1 hdc across to end. Fasten off cream color.
Row 3: With beige color yarn, sl st to the corner of your front panel on the wrong side or inside of the cardigan, ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1,*( ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next), repeat from * to end, turn.
Last Row: *[(sc, ch 2, sc)in next ch-1 space, sk next sc], repeat from * to last st, sl st to last sc. Fasten off.
FINISHING THE CROCHET CARDIGAN
Weave in all the tails.
Pin it for later:
Josephine Grantham
Sunday 1st of November 2020
Pattern says turn your cardigan inside out after seaming. Then it says the sleeves will be worked on the right side, I've watched the video which is helpful with the stitches but I'm confused as I don't know how the sleeve can be worked on the right side if you've just turned the cardigan inside out. Please help.
Shehnaaz
Wednesday 11th of November 2020
The sleeve is worked on the right side of the cardigan.
Rose
Saturday 12th of September 2020
I might have missed it, but are the stitches US or UK ? Lovely cardigan which might just inspire me to take up my crochet hook!
Shehnaaz
Sunday 20th of September 2020
They are in US terms.
Tracy McDonald
Saturday 25th of July 2020
Now That is a sweater. I love 3/4 length sleeves. I prefer thinner yarns, but this LB MANDALA sounds good. How much more yardage for a 5X. I'm short, round, and sleepy. Ha. Ha.
Shehnaaz
Saturday 25th of July 2020
I am not sure but I guess 8 skeins should be good.
Alice A
Friday 3rd of July 2020
For the large size 21.5" does not seem anywhere near long enough to give the appearance in the pictures of the completed cardigan. I've made mine 25" long and hope it stretches to the 30" the pattern says it should be. Is 21.5 " really going to stretch to 30"? I do love this pattern and hope I have not made a mistake with the length. Please let me know.
Shehnaaz
Friday 3rd of July 2020
Hi Alice, I think you are confusing the width with the length. 21.5 given in the table is the width of the back panel. Also, after you seam the sides, you will be adding more rows to the length. This was intended to help you adjust the flow of colors if you are using a variegated yarn. Hope that helps.