Skip to Content

Crochet Hooded Poncho Pattern, Autumn Leaves Poncho

Share the Love!

Crochet Poncho Pattern With Hood: Can Also be Made as a V-neck Poncho

 
Crochet hooded poncho pattern finished and displayed on a mannequin
 
 
 

This crochet hooded poncho pattern is designed using a beautiful textured stitch which is a simple 2-row repeat. The stitch pattern is easy to memorize making it a great project to work on while watching your favorite show. 

 

 

Finished hooded poncho crochet pattern on a mannequin, front view

 

 

I used Lion Brand Mandala yarn in the color Centaur for this poncho because it has the perfect fall colors that mirror the foliage of this beautiful season. You can substitute it with any other DK weight yarn of the same gauge. 

 

 

Back of hooded crochet poncho showing the hood

 

 

The hood is added last to your poncho. So if you don’t want a hood, you can make it without one too. I have included all sizes up to 5XL in this crochet poncho pattern so everyone can enjoy this lovely piece. Adjusting the length of this poncho is a breeze because you just have to keep repeating the last 2 rounds. 

 

 

Front view of finished hooded crochet poncho pattern

 

 

Side view of crochet poncho pattern with hood

 

 

I am sure you will enjoy making and wearing this cozy crochet hooded poncho pattern. 

 

 

Crochet Hooded Poncho Pattern

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $3.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”.

 

Pin it for later here.

 

Materials

1. Lion Brand Mandala Bonus Bundle yarn in the color Centaur. It is a self-striping yarn. You can substitute it with any DK size 3 yarn of the same gauge.

2. A size 7 (4.5mm) hook. Use any size hook to attain the gauge. 

3. Stitch markers. You can also use a contrasting piece of yarn or a safety pin. 

4. Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

 

 

Finished Size

Sizes include S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL. You can repeat the last 2 rounds to make your poncho as long as you want. It does stretch an inch or two under the weight of the crochet fabric. So keep that in mind. 

 

Here are the approximate finished measurements for each size when laid flat. 

For sizes Small and Medium, the poncho measured 24″, and for Large and XL, 26″ from the base of the neck to the front point.

For sizes 2XL and 3XL, the poncho measured 28″, and for sizes 4XL and 5XL, 30″ from the base of the neck to the front point. 

 

 

Yardage for Hooded Poncho Crochet Pattern

Note: Each skein of the Lion Brand Mandala Bonus Bundle includes 1,181 yards

S, M, or L:  1-1/2 skeins for the poncho without a hood and 2 skeins if adding a hood

XL and  2XL: 2-1/2 skeins for the poncho without a hood and 3 skeins if adding a hood

3XL, 4XL, and 5XL: 3 skeins for the poncho without a hood and 3-1/2 skeins if adding a hood

 

 

Stitch Abbreviations

The pattern is written in US terms.

ch: chain

st(sts): stitch (stitches)

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

YO: yarn over

fpdc: front post double crochet (explanation is given below)

fphdc: front post half double crochet

fpsc: ( front post single crochet)

RS: right side of your crochet fabric

WS: wrong side of your crochet fabric

 

 

Stitch Explanations

fpdc (front post double crochet): See a tutorial for front post double crochet and back post double crochet on my blog here: Front Post and Back Post Double Crochet Tutorial.

 

fphdc (front post half double crochet) and bphdc: See the tutorial on working the fpdc above. For a fphdc, you insert your hook just as in a fpdc and complete a hdc. For a bphdc, you you insert your hook just as in a bpdc and complete a hdc.

 

fpsc (front post single crochet): For a fpsc, you insert your hook just as in a fpdc and complete a sc. 

 

V-st: (dc, ch 1, dc) all worked into the same ch-1 space or stitch specified. 

 

dc2tog: YO, insert your hook into the first st specified and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, keep the remaining 2 loops on your hook and YO again, pull up a loop in the next st, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO pull through the remaining 3 loops on your hook.

 

sc2tog: YO, insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop, YO and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook.

 

 

 

Gauge

Pattern for Gauge Swatch

Row 1: Ch 38, 2 dc in 5th ch from hook (first 3 skipped chs count as a dc), ch 1, 2 dc in next st, *(sk next 3 chs, 2 dc in next ch, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch), repeat from * to last 2 chs, sk next ch, 1 dc in last ch, and turn.———- 7 repeats+ 2 dc

 

 

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk next dc, *(1 fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, 1 fpdc in next dc, sk next 2 dc), repeat from * until just 1 dc and beginning ch-3 is left, sk next dc, 1 dc on top of beg ch-2, turn.———7 shells + 2 dc

Keep repeating Row 2 until your piece measures 7 inches tall and measure for gauge. Switch to a smaller or bigger hook to attain gauge. 

 

 

Gauge

4 shells and 9 Rows= 4 inches

 

Related Crochet Poncho Patterns

Uptown Crochet Poncho Pattern

Sunset Poncho Crochet Pattern

Free Child Poncho Crochet Pattern

Turtleneck Poncho Crochet Pattern

 

 

Crochet Poncho Pattern With Hood

Pattern Notes

1. The pattern is the same for sizes S to XL and for sizes 2XL to 5XL. They vary only in length. 

2. Stitch counts for different sizes are given in the order S, M, L, and XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL). That is, the first number applies to sizes S to XL and the number in parenthesis applies to sizes 2XL to 5XL. If there is only 1 number it applies to all sizes, S to 5XL.

 

 

Sizes S to XL (2XL to 5XL)

 

Ch 130 (140), sl st to the first ch without twisting the chain. You will now have a big chain ring.

 

 

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 hdc in the same ch as sl st, 1 hdc in each ch across to end, sl st to first hdc. DO NOT TURN. ——-130 (140) hdc

 

Note: Starting from the next round, you will turn at the end of every round. 

 

 

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in the same st as ch 3, ch 2, 3 dc in next st, place a marker in the ch-2 space to indicate first corner, *(sk next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, 2 dc in next st), repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times, sk next 3 sts, 3dc in next st, ch 2, 3 dc in next st, place a marker in the ch-2 space to indicate the second corner, *(sk next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, 2 dc in next st), repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times, sk last 3 sts, sl st to top of beginning ch-3, place a marker on this side of the fabric to indicate the RS and turn. ———12 (13) repeats on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)

 

 

Round 3: Sl st into next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2 (fpsc and ch 2 count as a fpdc here and throughout), V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 11 (12) times to reach next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc sts right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, fpdc in next 2 dc sts, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times to reach the next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, 1 fpdc in next 2 dc right after the ch-2 space, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. ——12 (13) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc)

 

 

Note: Now we have 5 sts on each side of the ch-2 spaces at the corners. We will work a shell across these 5 sts to increase at the corners. 

 

 

Round 4: Sl st into the next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next st, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times to reach the 5 dc sts at the corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —-14 (15) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)

 

 

Round 5  (is similar to Round 3 but with extra shells between corners): Sl st into next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times to reach next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc sts right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, fpdc in next 2 dc sts, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 14 (15) times to reach the next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, 1 fpdc in next 2 dc right after the ch-2 space, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —— 14 (15) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc)

 

Round 6 (is similar to Round 4 but with extra shells between corners ): Sl st into the next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, now you will be near the 5 dc before ch-2 space, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 14 (15) times to reach near the 5 dc sts at the corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 13 (14) times, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —-16 (17) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)

 

 

Round 7  (is similar to Round 5 but with extra shells between corners): Sl st into next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 13 (14) times to reach next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc sts right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, fpdc in next 2 dc sts, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 16 (17) times to reach the next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, 1 fpdc in next 2 dc right after the ch-2 space, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * total 2 times until you reach beginning ch-2, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —— 16 (17) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc)

 

 

Round 8 (is similar to Round 6 but with extra shells between corners): Sl st into the next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, now you will be near the 5 dc before ch-2 space, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 16 (17) times to reach near the 5 dc sts at the corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * a total of 14 (15) times, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —-18 (19) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)

 

 

Round 9  (is similar to Round 7 but with extra shells between corners): Sl st into next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 3 dc sts of the next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc sts right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, fpdc in next 2 dc sts, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 3 dc sts of the next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc right before the ch-2 space, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, 1 fpdc in next 2 dc right after the ch-2 space, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach beginning ch-2, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —— 18 (19) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc)

 

 

Round 10 (is similar to Round 8 but with extra shells between corners): Sl st into the next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 5 dc before ch-2 space, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next st, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 5 dc sts at the corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach beginning ch-2, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —-20 (21) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)

 

 

Keep repeating Rounds 9 and 10 until you have completed 1 hdc row+ 29 shell rows. Every even row will add 2 shells between the corners. For example, at the end of Round 12, you will have 22 (23) shells between corners, and at the end of Round 14, you will have 24 (25)shells between the corners, and so on. 

 

 

The following rounds are the same as Rounds 9 and 10, but at the corners, you will make (3hdc, ch 2, 3hdc) instead of (3dc, ch2, 3dc). This will help reduce the point at the front. 

 

 

Row 31: Sl st into next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 3 dc sts of the next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc sts right before the ch-2 space, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, fpdc in next 2 dc sts, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 3 dc sts of the next corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next 2 dc right before the ch-2 space, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in the ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, 1 fpdc in next 2 dc right after the ch-2 space, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach beginning ch-2, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —— 40 (41) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (5 sts, ch 2, 5 sts)

 

 

Row 32: Sl st into the next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 5 dc before ch-2 space, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next st, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 5 dc sts at the corner, sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, sk next dc, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next dc, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach beginning ch-2, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —-42 (43) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc)

 

Note: The next 2 rounds are the same as the above 2 rounds, but at the corners, you will be working into hdc sts and not dc sts. That is the only difference. 

 

Row 33: Sl st into next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 3 hdc sts of the next corner, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next 2 hdc sts right before the ch-2 space, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, fpdc in next 2 sts, *(sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 3 hdc sts of the next corner, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next 2 hdc right before the ch-2 space, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in the ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, 1 fpdc in next 2 sts right after the ch-2 space, *(sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach beginning ch-2, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —— 42 (43) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (5 sts, ch 2, 5 sts)

 

 

Row 34: Sl st into the next dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc, *(sk next 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 5 sts before the ch-2 space, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next st, V-st in next st, fpdc in next st, sk next hdc, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next hdc, fpdc in next st, V-st in next st, fpdc in next st, *(sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach near the 5 sts at the corner, sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next st, V-st in next st, fpdc in next st, sk next st, (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in next ch-2 space, move the marker up into the ch-2 space you just made, sk next hdc, fpdc in next st, V-st in next st, fpdc in next st, *(sk next 2 sts, fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, fpdc in next dc), repeat from * until you reach beginning ch-2, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, turn. —-44 (45) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners. Each corner for this round is made up of (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc)

 

 

Keep repeating Rounds 33 and 34 until the poncho is the length you want. For sizes Small and Medium, I made it 23″, and for Large and XL, 25″ from the base of the neck to the front point.

 

For sizes 2XL and 3XL, I made it 27″, and for sizes 4XL and 5XL,  29″ from the base of the neck to the front point. 

 

 

Finishing the Neck

Round 1: Sl st to the base of the neck where you have the beginning tail, ch 2 (counts as a hdc), 1 fphdc in next st, *(1 bphdc in next st, 1 fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-2, do not turn.——–130 (140)sts

 

Round 2: Ch 2, work a fphdc in each fphdc and bphdc in each bphdc across to end, sl st to beginning ch-2. fasten off. —–130 (140)sts

 

If you don’t want a hood, your poncho is now complete. Enjoy!

 

 

Adding a Hood to the Poncho (optional)

Pattern Notes

1. The hood will be worked directly onto the neck in rows. 

 

2. Since the hood is worked in rows, we will need a multiple of 5+1 sts to work the hood. 

 

Stitches skipped in the front of the neck for working hood on the back

 

 

Skip 24 sts in the front of the neck and place 2 markers as shown in pic 1 above. You will work back and forth between these markers to make your hood across 106 (116) sts left after skipping 24 sts in the front. 

 

Row 1: Working on the RS of the poncho, sl st to the first marked st on the left, ch 2 (counts as first dc), sk next st, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, 2 dc in next st, *(sk 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, 2 dc in next st), repeat from * until 1 st is left before the next marked st, sk the next st, 1 dc in the marked st, turn.——–21 (23) repeats+ 2 dc

 

 

Note: At the end of every row from now on, you will work your last st into the top of the beginning ch-2 and not into beginning ch-3 as this will make your edges straight. 

 

 

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk next dc, *(1 fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, 1 fpdc in next dc, sk next 2 dc), repeat from * until just 1 dc and beginning ch-3 is left, sk next dc, 1 dc on top of beg ch-2, turn.

 

 

Keep repeating Row 2 until your hood measures 12.5 (13)” from the neck up and work the last row below.

 

 

Last Row: Ch 1, 1 sc in next dc, sc2tog across next 2 dc on either side of ch 1, *(1 sc in next 2 dc, sc2tog across next 2 dc on either side of ch 1), repeat from * until just a dc and beginning ch 1 is left, 1 sc on top of next dc and beginning ch-1. Do not fasten off.

 

 

Seaming the Top of the Hood

You can fold and seam the top of the hood using a sl st seam along the inside of the hood. Alternatively, you can also use a mattress stitch to seam the hood if you like a flat seam. Unlike the sl st seam, the Mattress stitch seam should be worked on the RS of the hood. You can see a video here: How to work a mattress stitch and you can see a picture tutorial for the mattress stitch here. 

 

 

Edging Around the Front of the Hood

This round is worked on the RS of the hood. Sl st to the side of the hood, 1 sc in the same point as sl st, distribute sc sts evenly along the edge of the hood until you reach the neck in front, 1 sc into each st of the neck, continue to distribute sc sts along the remaining length of the hood, sl st to first sc, fasten off. 

 

 

Finishing the Crochet Hooded Poncho

Weave in any tails left inside the poncho. Cozy up in your new crochet poncho with a hood and read a book by the fireplace, enjoy!

 

Watch a web story on this hooded crochet poncho pattern here.

 

More Crochet Poncho Patterns

Easy Uptown Crochet Poncho Pattern

Sunset Poncho Crochet Pattern

Free Kid’s Poncho Crochet Pattern

Turtleneck Poncho Crochet Pattern

 

 

""

 

 

Crochet Poncho Pattern With Hood: Can Also be Made as a V-neck Poncho

Share the Love!