Crochet Summer Poncho- Made from 2 Rectangles!
One of the most attractive features of any crochet garment is the ease of construction and a crochet poncho pattern always takes the cake.
Shaping can intimidate beginner crocheters but an easy crochet summer poncho pattern made from 2 rectangles like this one can put their fears to rest.
The stitch pattern looks complicated but is based on basic crochet stitches and decreases that anyone can easily tackle. I love the lacy look and think it can be adapted for a blanket paired with a beautiful lacy border.
What can I say about the Lion Brand Mandala yarn used? It comes in some gorgeous colorways and has amazing drape.
If a crochet poncho with too much color is not your style, try this in a single color DK weight cotton. I am sure you won’t be disappointed.
More Crochet Summer Poncho Patterns:
Crochet Summer Poncho Pattern
1. Lion Brand Mandala yarn in color Genie. It is a DK weight (size 3) self-striping yarn.
2. Hook J(6mm)
3. Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
4. Two wooden buttons for embellishment
S/M– fits bust size 32-38″
L/XL- fits bust size 40-46
2XL/3XL– fits bust size 48-54
S/M- 2 skein of Lion Brand Mandala or 950 yards of any other DK weight yarn
L/XL- 2 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala or 1200 yards of any other DK weight yarn
2XL/3XL- 3 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala or 1500 yards of any other DK weight yarn
The pattern is written in US terms.
sc– single crochet
hdc– half double crochet
dc– double crochet
WS– wrong side of the fabric
V-st: (dc, ch 3, dc) worked into the same st or ch.
Pattern for Gauge Swatch
Ch 62 and follow the poncho pattern below until your piece measures 5-1/2 inches. Measure for gauge without stretching your piece.
4 Repeats= 9-3/4″
Crochet Poncho Pattern
1. The poncho is made by joining 2 same size rectangles with single crochet seams.
2. Stitch counts for bigger sizes are given in the order S/M(L/XL, 2XL/3XL)
3. If you want your V-neck to be smaller, you can add more rows to the neck edging.
Ch 122 (132, 142). Initial ch is a multiple of 10+2
Row 1: 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook(2 skipped chs counts as a dc), 1 dc in next ch, sk next 2 chs, V-st in next ch, *(sk next 2 chs, 1 dc in next 5 chs, sk next 2 chs, V-st in next ch), repeat from * to last 5 chs, sk next 2 chs, 1 dc in the last 3 chs, turn.——12(13, 14)V-sts
dc2tog: This is a dc decrease worked across 2 sts. In this pattern, the decrease is not worked across 2 adjacent stitches, but you skip sts in between. See pic 2 and 3 below before working Row 2.
YO, insert your hook into the first st specified and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on your hook. Keeping the remaining 2 loops on your hook, YO again, insert your hook into the next st specified and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through the remaining 3 loops on your hook to complete your dc2tog.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a dc here and throughout), sk next dc, 1 dc in next st, ch 2, 5 dc in the ch-3 space of next V-st, *(ch 2, sk next dc of the same V-st, dc2tog across the first and 5th dc of the next dc group, you will have 3 skipped sts between the 2 legs of the dc2tog(pic 2 above), ch 2, 5 dc in the ch-3 space of next V-st), repeat from * until you work 5 dc in the ch-3 space of the last V-st, ch 2, sk the next dc of the same V-st, dc2tog across the next dc and beg ch-2(pic 3 above), turn. You will have one dc skipped between the 2 legs of the last dc2tog.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc and ch 1 here and throughout), 1 dc in the same st as ch 3, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, *(V-st in next dc2tog that looks like an inverted ‘V’, 1 dc in next 5 dc sts), repeat from * to last ch-2 space, sk the last ch-2 space and next dc, (dc, ch 1, dc ) on top of beg chain, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first ch-1 space, ch 2, sk next dc, dc2tog across the first and 5th dc of the next dc group, *(ch 2, 5 dc in the ch-3 space of next V-st, ch 2, sk next dc of the same V-st, dc2tog across the first and 5th dc of the next dc group), repeat from * until you have worked a dc2tog on top of the last dc group, ch 2, sk the next dc, 3 dc in the space under beg ch-3, turn.
Row 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in next 2 sts, V-st on top of next dc2tog that looks like an inverted ‘V’, *(1 dc in next 5 dc sts, V-st on top of next dc2tog that looks like an inverted ‘V’), repeat from * until you work a V-st on top of the last dc2tog, sk the next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 2 sts and beg ch-2, turn.
Keep repeating Rows 2-5 until you have a total of 28(32, 36) rows. Make one more rectangle following the same pattern.
The approximate dimensions of the 2 finished rectangles are as follows:
S/M: 15-1/2 X 31″
L/XL: 18 X 33.5″
2XL/3XL: 20-1/2 X 36″
Joining the Pieces of your Crochet Poncho
1. The seams should be made on the wrong side of the fabric. You can choose whichever side is less appealing to you as the wrong side. In the diagram above, the pieces are placed with the wrong side(WS) facing up.
2. You can choose any one of the panels as your front one. I picked the one that had more color as my front piece.
3. I used a single crochet seam to join the pieces.
On the long side of the panel you chose as your front piece, place a marker 15-1/2(18, 20-1/2) inches away from the edge. Sew the shorter side of the back piece to this marked part without stretching (Part B above). Next, join the top shorter side of the right piece to the long side of the left piece as shown by the red arrow.
Round 1: With green color yarn from your cake, join yarn to the center of the neckline back with a sl st, ch 2( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in each st across until you reach the center of the neckline front where the seam is, 1 hdc in the seam, 1 hdc in each st across to end, sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn.
Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. Do not turn.
You can repeat Round 2 a couple of times if you want to make your neck edging wider and your neck smaller. In my sample, I did not repeat Round 2 but directly worked the row below.
Last Row: Ch 1(does not count as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, *(sk next st, 1 sc in next, 1 sc in skipped st), repeat from * to end, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
This is only for embellishment and is totally optional.
Ch 131, sl st in back bump of 2nd ch and next 64 sts, sl st the tie to the center front of the V-neck, sl st into the back bumps of the remaining chains across to end. Fasten off.
Weave in one of the tails on this side of the tie. Thread the remaining tail through a yarn needle and use it to pull the tie through a bead. Tie a knot on the tie to secure the bead in place. Weave in the tail now.
The other end of the tie will have no tail to help you pull it through the bead. Thread the yarn needle with a small piece of yarn, pass it through the end of the tie, and knot to form a loop as shown in pic 8 above. Now use the needle to pull the tie through the bead, tie a knot at the end of the tie to hold the bead in place. Cut off the attached yarn and needle.
Leveling the Edges of the Poncho
Start from the corner at the front and distribute sc sts evenly along the right edge of the poncho all the way to the back corner, proceed to work sc sts along the left edge all the way to the front corner, sl st to the first sc and fasten off.
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You can find more crochet summer poncho patterns on favecrafts.com