1.5 Hour Slipper, Free Chunky Crochet Slipper Pattern

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Want to work the squishiest pair of crochet slippers? Then, this free chunky crochet slipper pattern made with Bernat Blanket yarn is a must-try.

 

This free crochet slipper pattern comes in 8 sizes, US shoe sizes 5 to 12. You can now make a slipper for every woman in your family.

 

Free Crochet Slipper Pattern

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $3.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”.

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Materials

1. Size 6 Super Bulky Chenille yarn. Bernat Blanket yarn in colors Pale Gray and Merlot, and Bernat Baby Blanket yarn in color Overcast was used for the samples.

2. Red Heart Hygge Fur in color Cotton Tail for the edging

3. An N/P(10mm) hook for the main slipper and a K(6.5mm) hook for the fur trim

4. A big eye tapestry needle to weave in the ends

5. A locking stitch marker or a safety pin.

 

Finished Size

Note: Size refers to US shoe sizes. The slipper is designed to have 1/4- 1/2 inch wiggle room.

 

Size Foot Length Slipper Length
5 8.5″ 9″
6 9″ 9.5″
7 9.25″ 9.5″
8 9.5″ 10″
9 10″ 10.5″
10 10.25″ 10.5″
11 10.75″ 11″
12 11″ 11.5″

 

Yardage

Each pair takes around 100 yards of the super bulky yarn. You can make 2 pairs from one skein of Bernat Blanket yarn of 220 yards.

Small amounts of  Red Heart Hygge fur yarn for the trim.

 

Stitch Abbreviations

ch– chain

st– stitch

sc– single crochet

sl st– slip stitch

YO– yarn over

 

Gauge

7 sc sts and 7 Rows = 4 inches

Stitch Explanations

1. sc2tog: It is a decrease that joins 2 sts into one.

To work a sc2tog, insert your hook into the next st or space specified and pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop, YO and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook.

 

2. sc3tog: It is a decrease that joins 3 sts into one.

To work a sc3tog, *(insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop), repeat from * 2 more times,  YO and pull through all the 4 loops on your hook.

 

Free Crochet Pattern

Pattern Notes

1. Sizes 5 to 9 are grouped together and sizes 10 to 12 are grouped together.

 

Sizes 5 to 9

With the bigger 10mm hook, ch 4.

 

Note: When you work 2 sc into the free loops of the foundation chain, work your first sc inserting your hook under one loop and the second one inserting hook under the junction of the current loop and next loop where they cross. This will make any hole left smaller.

 

 

1. work into the free loops of the foundation chain

 

2. Round 1 completed

 

Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, pivot to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 1 above, 2 sc in the first free loop of the foundation ch, 2 sc in the next free loop of the foundation ch, sl st to first sc, do not turn. ———-11 sc

 

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), *(1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st), repeat from * 4 more times, 1 sc in next st, do not sl st and do not turn.——16 sc

 

Notes

1. We will now start working in a spiral without sl stitching at the end of rounds.

2. We will place a marker in the first st of every round to keep track of the rounds. Every time you work a st into the marked st, move the marker up into the st you just worked to indicate the beginning of the new round.

 

Round 3: Sk the next ch(it looks like a st but is actually the beginning ch 1), 1 sc into the next sc, place a marker in this sc. 1 sc in next 15 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-16 sc

 

Round 4: 1 sc in the marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in next 15 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-16 sc

 

Notes

1. Before you proceed any further, use your beginning tail to close any gaps at the toe side and weave in the rest of the tail.

2. At the end of each round, make sure to write down the number of rounds you have completed. It can be hard to count your rounds when you are working in a spiral.

 

Repeat Round 4 until you have completed 9 Rounds for size 5, 10 Rounds for sizes 6 and 7, 11 Rounds for size 8, and 12 Rounds for size 9.

 

Heel Side- Sizes 5 to 9

 

3. All Rows of the heel completed

 

Row 1: Sl st to next marked st. You can now take off the marker. We won’t be using it anymore. Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 10 sts, turn——11 sc

 

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 10 sts, turn. —–11 sc

 

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 7 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–13 sc

 

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 12 sts, turn. —–13 sc

 

Row 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 3 sts, sc3tog across next 3 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–13 sc

 

Row 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 12 sts, turn. Do not fasten off. —–13 sc

 

Seaming the Heel

 

4. Work a sl st seam on the inside of the slipper

 

5. End with a sl st in the corner

 

6. Back of the heel after slip stitching

 

Now fold your last row in half and work a sl st seam on the inside of your slipper as shown in pic 4 above. Insert your hook only through the front loop of the front layer and the back loop of the back layer when you slip stitch. This will prevent bulk from forming at your seam. End with a sl st in the corner as shown in pic 5 above.  Fasten off.

 

Working Around the Opening

Notes

1. While working the first round of sc sts around the opening, I found that it was easier to insert the hook into the valleys between the rows.

2. When you work the first sc round, you can work over the yarn tail to weave it in.

 

7. Work sc2tog at points shown

 

Round 1 (for sizes 5 to 8 only): With the bulky yarn, sl st to the back of the heel, ch 1 and work 21 sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 7 above, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.——-21 sc

 

Round 1 (for size 9): With the bulky yarn, sl st to the back of the heel, ch 1 and work 22 sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 7 above, sl st to the first sc, fasten off. ——22 sc

 

Tips for Working with Fur yarn

1. The rest of the rounds are common for sizes 5 to 9. It will be hard to see the sts when you work with fur yarn, so you can use your fingers to feel the stitch.

 

2. Keep your gauge loose when working with this yarn. If you are unable to do this, go up a hook size or two. By keeping the gauge loose you will be able to unravel your work if needed.

 

3. Place a marker in the first sc of every round, so you know where to sl st at the end of the round. I did not use a marker but if you are not comfortable using fur yarn, this will be really helpful.

 

Round 2(All 5 sizes): With the fur yarn, sl st to the back of the heel, ch 1, working over the fur tail, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across until you reach near the toe side where you worked the sc2tog, 2 sc into the sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you reach the next sc2og, 2 sc into the sc2tog, 1 sc in each st across to end, sl st to first sc, do not turn.

 

Note: Now we will add more sts to make our fur edging fluffy.

 

Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, do not turn.

 

Round 4: Ch 1,  sc2tog in the same st as ch 1 and next st, *(sc2tog across the next 2 sts), repeat from * to end, sl st to first sc, do not turn.

 

Rounds 5 & 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next st and each st across to end, sl st to first sc, do not turn. Fasten off after Round 6.

 

Finishing the Slipper

Weave in any tails left. You just have to randomly weave in the fur yarn, and it will disappear into your work.

 

Sizes 10, 11 & 12

With the bigger 10mm hook, ch 4.

 

Note: When you work 2 sc into the free loops of the foundation chain, work your first sc inserting your hook under one loop and the second one inserting hook under the junction of the current loop and next loop where they cross. When working the third sc into the last loop, dig your hook a little deeper. This will close any hole.

 

8. work into the free loops of the foundation chain

 

9. Round 1 completed

 

Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, pivot to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 8 above, 2 sc in the first free loop of the foundation ch, 3 sc in the next free loop, sl st to first sc, do not turn. ———-12 sc

 

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), *(1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st), repeat from * 5 more times, do not sl st and do not turn.——18 sc

 

Notes

1. We will now start working in a spiral without sl stitching at the end of rounds.

2. We will place a marker in the first st of every round to keep track of the rounds. Every time you work a st into the marked st, move the marker up into the st you just worked to indicate the beginning of the new round.

 

Round 3: Sk the next ch(it looks like a st but is actually the beginning ch 1), 1 sc into the next sc, place a marker in this sc. 1 sc in next 17 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-18 sc

 

Round 4: 1 sc in the marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in next 17 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-18 sc

 

Notes

1. Before you proceed any further, use your beginning tail to close any gaps at the toe side and weave in the rest of the tail.

2. At the end of each round, make sure to write down the number of rounds you have completed. It can be hard to count your rounds when you are working in a spiral.

 

Repeat Round 4 until you have completed 12 Rounds for sizes 10 and 11, and 13 Rounds for size 12.

 

Heel Side- Sizes 10 to 12

 

10. All Rows of the heel completed

 

Row 1: Sl st to next marked st. You can now take off the marker. We won’t be using it anymore. Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 11 sts, turn——12 sc

 

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 11 sts, turn. —–12 sc

 

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 8 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–14 sc

 

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 13 sts, turn. —–14 sc

 

Repeat Row 5 one more time if you are making size 11 or 12.

 

Row 6(Row 7 for sizes 11 and 12): Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 3 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–14 sc

 

Row 7 (Row 8 for sizes 11 & 12): Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 13 sts, turn. Do not fasten off. —–14 sc

 

Seaming the Heel

 

11. Work a sl st seam on the inside of the slipper

 

12. End with a sl st in the corner

 

13. Back of the heel after slip stitching

 

Now fold your last row in half and work a sl st seam on the inside of your slipper as shown in pic 11. Insert your hook only through the front loop of the front layer and the back loop of the back layer when you slip stitch. This will prevent bulk from forming at your seam. End with a sl st in the corner as shown in pic 12.  Fasten off.

 

Working Around the Opening

Notes

1. While working the first round of sc sts around the opening, I found that it was easier to insert the hook into the valleys between the rows.

2. When you work the first sc round, you can work over the yarn tail to weave it in.

 

14. Work sc2tog at points shown

 

Round 1 : With the bulky yarn, sl st to the back of the heel, ch 1 and work 22 sc(23 sc for sizes 11 and 12) around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 14 above, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.——-22( 23 for sizes 11 & 12)sts

 

Tips for Working with Fur yarn

1. The rest of the rounds are common for sizes 5 to 9. It will be hard to see the sts when you work with fur yarn, so you can use your fingers to feel the stitch.

 

2. Keep your gauge loose when working with this yarn. If you are unable to do this, go up a hook size or two. By keeping the gauge loose you will be able to unravel your work if needed.

 

3. Place a marker in the first sc of every round, so you know where to sl st at the end of the round. I did not use a marker but if you are not comfortable using fur yarn, this will be really helpful.

 

Round 2( All 3 sizes): With the fur yarn, sl st to the back of the heel, ch 1, working over the fur tail, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across until you reach near the toe side where you worked the sc2tog, 2 sc into the sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you reach the next sc2og, 2 sc into the sc2tog, 1 sc in each st across to end, sl st to first sc, do not turn.

 

Note: Now we will add more sts to make our fur edging fluffy.

 

Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, do not turn.

 

Round 4: Ch 1,  sc2tog in the same st as ch 1 and next st, *(sc2tog across the next 2 sts), repeat from * to end, sl st to first sc, do not turn.

 

Rounds 5 & 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next st and each st across to end, sl st to first sc, do not turn. Fasten off after Round 6.

 

Finishing the Slipper

Weave in any tails left. You just have to randomly weave in the fur yarn, and it will disappear into your work.

 

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