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For those of you who want to continue crocheting in the warmer months, here is a lovely free pattern for your home, kitchen towel.
Make them in 100% cotton for good absorbency and durability. I had made them for a friend a couple of months ago and found the time to write down the pattern only recently.
The chevron used a combination of alternate double crochet and single crochet rows. This makes it a quicker version of the chevron stitch when compared to the tedious single crochet chevron.
This summer, you can expect more designs for your home from Crochet Dreamz. So what are you waiting for? Grab your hooks and yarn and get going.
Materials
1. Worsted weight cotton yarn in 3 colors. Lily sugar n cream was used for the sample.
2. Hook I (5.5mm)
3. One ¾ inch button
4. Yarn needle for weaving in the ends
Finished Size
15 inches wide at the base and 17 inches tall after buttoning up.
Gauge
12 dc st = 4 inches
Stitch Abbreviations
st- stitch
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
hdc- half double crochet
sk- skip
ch- chain
Stitch Explanations
sc2tog: A sc decrease that joins 2 stitches into one. Insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook, yarn over an pull through all the loops on hook.
dc2tog: A dc decrease that joins two stitches into one. Wrap the yarn around the hook, insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, keep remaining two loops on hook, wrap the yarn around the hook again, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over again and pull through all the 3 loops on hook.Pattern
Ch 48 +3Row 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook ( beginning Ch-3 counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in next 3 st, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next *( 2 dc again in next, 1 dc in next 3 st, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next), repeat from * a total of 3 times. Turn. ————–48 st
Row 2: Ch 1( not counted as a st here and throughout), 2 sc in same st as ch1, 1 sc in next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next, *( 2 sc again in next, 1 sc in next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next ), repeat from * a total of 3 times. Join new color at the end of this row while working the last sc. While you have two loops of the last sc on your hook, pull the new color through the two loops. Fasten off the previous color. Turn. — ———-48 st
Note: Work over the yarn tails.
Row 3: Ch 3 with the new color joined ( counts as 1st dc here and throughout), 1 dc in same st as ch 3, 1 dc in next 3 st, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next *( 2 dc again in next, 1 dc in next 3 st, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next), repeat from * a total of 3 times. Turn. ————–48 stRepeat Rows 2 and 3 alternately changing colors at the end of Row 2 every time. After you have a total of 12 stripes ( 24 rows), work the following row.
Row 25 (Leveling Row): Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 3 st, *( 1 hdc in next, 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in next 3 st, skip next 2 st, 1 sc in next 3 st), repeat from * a total of 3 times, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in last 4 st. Join new color at the end of the row while you work your last sc. Turn. ——-42 st
Row 26: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, sc 2tog, *(sc, sc2tog), repeat from * till the end. Turn. ——–28 st
Rows 27-29: Repeat row 26. You will have 9 st at end of row 29.Rows 30-34: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn.————-9 st
Row 35: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog. Turn.———6 st
Row 36: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next, sc 2tog, 1 sc in next 2 st. Turn.——-5 st
Row 37: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn.————-5 st
Repeat row 37 till your work measures 6 inches from where the last color change starts. If you want your strap longer, this is the row you should repeat.
Button Hole Row: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc, 1 sc. Turn.
Next Row: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, skip next st, 3 sc in ch-2 loop, skip next st, 1 sc in last. Turn.—————–5st
Last Row: Ch 1, skip next st, 5 dc in next st ( the 3rd st), skip next st, sl st into last st. Fasten off.
Finishing
1. Make a round of sl st around the top part of your towel to even out the edges, for example around the top purple or blue parts in the sample towels.
2. Weave in any ends left and sew on the button.
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Hello CrochetDreamz,
It appears that the link posted for this pattern is broken.
Would you have another link for the pattern?
Lisa Wilhelm
Hi Lisa, the link seems to be working fine. Use the contact me form to email me and I will send you a copy.
How much yarn does this pattern need?
Author
Around 50 yards of each color.
Thank you for sharing this pattern do you know how much yarn it takes to make each towel?
Just around 50 yards of each color.
Super easy pattern to follow. Turned out great, thank you!
Hello these are lovely! Thank you for posting. I also love the chart. In the first row of the written pattern should it be, 1 dc in same st as beginning ch 3, after the initial ch 3 ? Love your patterns and really appreciate you sharing them with us.
I am sorry, I didn't understand what you meant.
I have just found your blog today & it's great! May I get the pattern for your chevron towel? It's so pretty. Thank you in advance.
I was wondering how you would make this pattern into a blanket. I liked the double crochet and single crochet way of doing this pattern.
Any multiple of 12 + 3 should work for your starting chain.
Ok thank you 🙂
What does the last sentence of the row 1 mean " Turn. ————–48 st"
Does this mean turn my work and do 48 slip stitches?
Thank you!
That you will have 48 stitches at the end of Row 1.
Would this pattern make a decent potholder too, if I wanted to make a matching one? I'm not sure if the gaps are too wide.
You can try using a smaller hook and make a double layered one.
I am having trouble getting 48 stitches at the end. I have took apart and redone several time and am only getting 47 stitches on the first row each time. HELP!
The beginning ch-3 is also counted as a stitch. I think that is where you are losing a stitch.
I love this pattern very beautiful and I love the way you explain the instructions thank you very much I will be doing it soon for my kitchen
Author
Thank you so much, Evelyn. I am glad you like the pattern.
Thank you for this. Wondering if there is a PDF version that I can purchase? Just makes it so much easier to save to my iPad. Thanks!
Author
Hi Wanda, I will be adding links to purchase my free patterns in PDF format soon. Since I just redesigned my blog, it might take me a while. Thank you for your patience.
u would like to know if i can sell my crochet work from your cupcake pattern as i do not want to do anything illegal and get in trouble
Author
Hi Linda, you are free to sell what you make from my pattern, but please do not use my pictures to sell them online. A link to my blog would be much appreciated but not necessary. Thank you for asking.
Love the pattern! I’m however having trouble as well not getting 48 stitches. I’ve done it over multiple times. For the 48+3, wouldn’t it be total 51 chains? A little lost, sorry!
Author
Hi Courtney, Yes, the initial chain would be 51. If you are getting 47 instead of 48, that is because the beginning ch-3 is also counted as a stitch. I found that this kept the edges neater.
I can’t seem to get the sides to stay straight, I’m counting my stitches for each row. I have had this problem before with the chevron stitch. Any suggestions?
Author
Hi Sheryl, it is the increase at the ends that keeps the edges straight. If that isn’t working for you, why not try adding one more stitch in the first and the last stitch. I would suggest you try it on a small swatch first.
I don’t get the direction to 2 sc in same st as ch 1 and the 1 dc in same st as ch 3. I’m at a loss. Can you help me figure out where this is?
Author
You would be working the 2sc and 1 dc into the very first st.