This crochet beanie hat free pattern is the kind of project you’ll want to make again and again. The easy textured stitch is simple to work, and it gives such a beautiful look without any fuss.
This free pattern includes sizes from baby to adult, so you can make a matching set for the whole family. Handmade hats always make the coziest gifts, and these are sure to be worn and loved all winter long.
I also love how versatile this beanie is—you can keep it neutral for a classic vibe or go bright and colorful to show off your style. The faux fur pom-pom on top is optional, but I think it adds that perfect finishing touch.
And the best part? These beanies work up quickly, which makes them an easy, satisfying project for beginners and experienced crocheters alike. Grab your yarn and hook—it’s time to make a new favorite hat!
Crochet Beanie Hat Free Pattern
Materials
1. Worsted weight yarn. Lion Brand Skein Tones yarn in colors Truffle, Almond, and Ivory was used to make the sample hats.
2. A G (4 mm) hook for ribbing and a 7 (4.5 mm) hook for the rest of the hat
3. Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
4. Stitch markers. You can also use safety pins or contrasting color yarn scraps.
5. A button to attach the fur pom pom and make it detachable
6. A fur pom pom
Finished size
Baby– Fits up to an 18-inch head and is 7 inches tall and 17″ in circumference
Toddler– Fits 19-inch head and is 7-1/2 inches tall and 18″ in circumference
Child– Fits 21-inch head and is 8 inches tall and 19-1/2″ in circumference
Adult Small– Fits a 22-inch head and is 8-3/4″ inches tall and 20″ in circumference
Adult Medium or Large (M/L)– Fits 23-inch head and is 8-3/4″ inches tall and 21-1/2″ in circumference
Yardage
Baby: 180 yards
Toddler: 200 Yards
Child: 240 yards
Teen/Adult Small:- 260 yards
Adult Medium/Large: 280 yards
Stitch Abbreviations
The pattern is in standard American terms.
ch: chain
st (sts): stitch (stitches)
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
YO: yarn over
cl: cluster
cls: clusters
sk: skip
Stitch Explanations
1. sc in the Back Loops Only (BLO): Instead of inserting your hook under both the loops of your stitch, you will insert it only under the back loop and leave the front loop free while working the sc, see the picture below.
2. sc2tog: It is a decrease worked across 2 sts to join them into one. Pull up a loop in each of the next 2 sts, YO, and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook—–sc2tog completed
Gauge
With 4.5 mm hook, 4 cls=2 inches
You might also like these free beanie patterns:
Beanie Hat Crochet Pattern
Pattern Notes
1. The hat is worked bottom up, starting with the ribbing.
2. Sizes Baby, Toddler, and Child are grouped, and sizes Adult Small and Adult Medium/Large are grouped. Headings are color-coded for ease. Baby, Toddler, and child headings are Pink, and the bigger sizes are Blue.
Baby (Toddler, Child)
Note: Stitch counts are given in the order Baby (Toddler, Child)
Ribbing
With the G (4 mm) hook, ch 14 (16, 18).
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to end, turn.——–13 (15, 17) sc
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in BLO of the first st, 1 sc in the BLO of each st across to last st, 1 sc in the last st (going under both the loops like a regular sc), turn.—–13 (15, 17) sc
Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing is 16 (17, 17-1/2) inches without stretching. Do not fasten off.
Joining the Ends of the Ribbing
Bring the beginning of your ribbing near the last row where your hook and the working yarn are. Sl st both ends together, going under the back loops of the stitches of the last row and the free loops on the foundation chain side.
Body
Pattern Notes
1. Distributing stitches along the ribbing
When working into the ribbing, you won’t have regular stitches to use. Instead, work 1 sc into each row end. Remember that each ridge = 2 rows.
If the number of row ends doesn’t match your total stitch count, adjust by adding a few increases or decreases as you go. To plan ahead, count the total number of ribbing rows before starting Round 1. This will help you estimate how many increases or decreases you’ll need.
Tip: You can also place markers to divide the ribbing into 4 equal sections. Then, work about ¼ of your total stitches in each section to keep the distribution even.
2. While working the Base Sc Round, do not insert your hook into any big holes and make it even bigger; work into the body of the stitches instead.
Base sc Round: Ch 1 at the seam and work 72 (76, 82) sc sts evenly distributed around the ribbing. Sl st to the first st but do not turn.—–72 (76, 82)sc
Notes
In the following rounds, do not miss the ch 1 after each cl. The last cl is also followed by a ch-1 at the end of the round.
Round 1: Switch to the bigger 4.5 mm hook. No need to make a beginning ch here. *Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, repeat from * until you have 36 (38, 41) cls, do not sl st and do not turn.—–— 36 (38, 41) cls
Notes
1. Between the post of 2 cls you will have 2 sts separated by a vertical bar (you can see the vertical bar if you gently pull apart your clusters). If you have only one stitch and no vertical bar between two clusters, it means you missed the ch-1 after the cluster in the previous round.
2. In the next 2 rows, when the pattern says pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, you can pull up a loop on either side of this vertical bar.
Round 2: Pull up a loop in the same st as the last cluster you worked, pull up a loop in the next st, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, place a marker in the cl you just made. Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, repeat from * until you have 36 (38, 41) cls, counting from the marked cl. Do not sl st and do not turn.——- 36 (38, 41) cls
Round 3: Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, move marker into the cl you just made, Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, repeat from * until you have 36 (38, 41) cls, counting from the marked cl. Do not sl st and do not turn. ——- 36 (38, 41) cls
Repeat Round 3 until your hat is 6-1/4 (6-3/4, 7-1/4) inches tall with a folded brim.
Decrease Rounds
Note: In the next round, we will eliminate the ch-1 after the clusters to start shrinking our hat.
Decrease Round 1: Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, DO NOT ch 1, move marker into the cl you just made, Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, DO NOT ch 1, repeat from * until you have 36 (38, 41) cls, counting from the marked cl. Do not sl st and do not turn. ——- 36 (38, 41) cls
Decrease Round 2: 1 sc in next st, place a marker in this st, *(sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * to end or until 1 st left, 1 sc in last st, sl st to first sc, do not turn. ——-24 (26, 30) sts
Decrease Round 3: 1 sc in next st, place a marker in this st, *(sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to first sc, fasten off with a 20″ tail for cinching the hat shut. ——16 (18, 20) sts
Cinching the Hat
1. Turn the hat inside out. Thread the tail at the top through a yarn needle, go in and out through every alternate st at the top of the hat, pull, and cinch the hat shut. Make a couple of knots and securely weave in the remaining tail.
2. Sew a button inside the hat for anchoring your pom pom if you want to make it detachable. Now turn the hat right side out, and use a hook to pull the elastic loop on the pom pom over the button inside. You can twist and go over the button one more time if your pom pom dangles. You can also sew the pom pom directly onto the hat using a needle and thread. Enjoy!
Adult Small (adult Medium/Large)
Note: Stitch counts are given in the order Adult Small (Adult Medium/Large). If there is only one number it pertains to boththe sizes.
Ribbing
With the G (4 mm) hook, ch 21
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to end, turn.——–20 sc
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in BLO of the first st, 1 sc in the BLO of each st across to last st, 1 sc in the last st (going under both the loops like a regular sc), turn.—–20 sc
Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing is 18-1/2 (19-1/2) inches without stretching. Do not fasten off.
Joining the Ends of the Ribbing
Bring the beginning of your ribbing near the last row where your hook and the working yarn are. Sl st both ends together, going under the back loops of the stitches of the last row and the free loops on the foundation chain side.
Body
Pattern Notes
1. Distributing stitches along the ribbing
When working into the ribbing, you won’t have regular stitches to use. Instead, work 1 sc into each row end. Remember that each ridge = 2 rows.
If the number of row ends doesn’t match your total stitch count, adjust by adding a few increases or decreases as you go. To plan ahead, count the total number of ribbing rows before starting Round 1. This will help you estimate how many increases or decreases you’ll need.
Tip: You can also place markers to divide the ribbing into 4 equal sections. Then, work about ¼ of your total stitches in each section to keep the distribution even.
2. While working the Base Sc Round, do not insert your hook into any big holes and make it even bigger; work into the body of the stitches instead.
Base sc Round: Ch 1 at the seam and work 84 (90) sc sts evenly distributed around the ribbing. Sl st to the first st but do not turn.—–84 (90) sc
Notes
In the following rounds, do not miss the ch 1 after each cl. The last cl is also followed by a ch-1 at the end of the round.
Round 1: Switch to the bigger 4.5 mm hook. No need to make a beginning ch here. *Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, repeat from * until you have 42 (45) cls cls, do not sl st and do not turn.—–— 42 (45) cls
Notes
1. Between the post of 2 cls you will have 2 sts separated by a vertical bar (you can see the vertical bar if you gently pull apart your clusters). If you have only one stitch and no vertical bar between two clusters, it means you missed the ch-1 after the cluster in the previous round.
2. In the next 2 rows, when the pattern says pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, you can pull up a loop on either side of this vertical bar.
Round 2: Pull up a loop in the same st as the last cluster you worked, pull up a loop in the next st, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, place a marker in the cl you just made. Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, repeat from * until you have 42 (45) cls, counting from the marked cl. Do not sl st and do not turn.——- 42 (45) cls
Round 3: Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, move marker into the cl you just made, Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, ch 1, repeat from * until you have 42 (45) cls, counting from the marked cl. Do not sl st and do not turn. ——- 42 (45) cls
Repeat Round 3 until your hat is 8 inches tall with a folded brim.
Decrease Rounds
Note: In the next round, we will eliminate the ch-1 after the clusters to start shrinking our hat.
Decrease Round 1: Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, DO NOT ch 1, move marker into the cl you just made, Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, DO NOT ch 1, repeat from * until you have 42 (45) cls, counting from the marked cl. Do not sl st and do not turn. ——- 42 (45) cls
Decrease Round 2: 1 sc in next st, place a marker in this st, *(sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * to end or until 1 st left, 1 sc in last st, sl st to first sc, do not turn. ——-28 (30) sts
Decrease Round 3: 1 sc in next st, place a marker in this st, *(sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to first sc, fasten off with a 20″ tail for cinching the hat shut. ——19 (20) sts
Cinching the Hat
1. Turn the hat inside out. Thread the tail at the top through a yarn needle, go in and out through every alternate st at the top of the hat, pull, and cinch the hat shut. Make a couple of knots and securely weave in the remaining tail.
2. Sew a button inside the hat for anchoring your pom pom if you want to make it detachable. Now turn the hat right side out, and use a hook to pull the elastic loop on the pom pom over the button inside. You can twist and go over the button one more time if your pom pom dangles. You can also sew the pom pom directly onto the hat using a needle and thread. Enjoy!
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