Step by Step Crochet Bag Tutorial- easy pattern with gorgeous results!
This step by step crochet bag pattern was fun to design. I am absolutely in love with the wave pattern on this bag.
It is a perfect size and will be your go to crochet bag this summer. Make them in neutrals or in bright colors. I am sure you will enjoy making many of these.
The hanging tassel is simple yet adds the perfect finishing touch, don’t you think? You can also buy charms and hang them. Your bag, your choice!
If any of you have been wondering if your stuff will fall off through the gaps, that is why we have a lining. This easy crochet bag tutorial comes with instructions to add a hand-sewn lining.
Disclosure: This post might contain affiliate links. You can read my full Disclosure Policy here.
Step by Step Crochet Bag Pattern
Materials
1. A bulky size 5 weight yarn like Bernat Maker Home Dec. I used colors Clay, Aqua, and Cream for the sample bags.
2. An I(5.5mm) hook and an H(5mm) hook.
3. A tapestry needle, preferably a plastic one.
4. Purse or Keychain clasps from Amazon to attach your tassel
5. Locking stitch markers or safety pins.
6. Matching Fabric to line the bag- 1/2 yard
7. Matching Sewing Needle and Thread to attach the lining.
Finished Size
10 inches wide and 10-3/4 inches tall.
Yardage
Around 250 yards. It took me less than a skein of Bernat Maker Home Dec yarn to make one bag.
Stitch Abbreviations
The pattern is written in US terms
ch– chain
st– stitch
sk– skip
sc– single crochet
sl st– slip stitch
hdc– half double crochet
dc– double crochet
tr– triple crochet
dtr– double treble/quadruple crochet
YO– yarn over
Stitch Explanations
Triple crochet (tr): Wrap the yarn around your hook twice, insert your hook into the specified stitch and pull up a loop, you will now have 4 loops on your hook *(YO and pull through 2 loops), repeat from * 2 more times to complete a tr crochet.
Quadruple crochet stitch/Double Treble Crochet(dtr): Wrap the yarn around your hook 3 times, insert your hook into the specified stitch and pull up a loop, you will now have 5 loops on your hook *(YO and pull through 2 loops), repeat from * 3 more times to complete a dtr crochet.
sc2tog: Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, you will now have 3 loops on your hook, YO, and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook to complete your sc2tog.
sc3tog: Pull up a loop in the next 3 sts, you will now have 4 loops on your hook, YO and pull through all the 4 loops on your hook to complete your sc2tog.
hdc3tog: YO and pull up a loop in the first st, you will now have 3 loops on your hook, YO and pull up a loop in the second st, you will now have 5 loops on your hook, YO and pull up a loop in the third st, you will now have 7 loops on your hook, YO and pull through all the 7 loops on your hook to complete a hdc3tog.
Related Step by Step Crochet Bag Tutorials
2 Hour Market Bag Free Pattern
How to Crochet a Small Bag
1. Wave Rows completed
Pattern notes
1. The wave pattern is formed using short and tall stitches. The stitches get progressively taller as you reach the peak of the wave and then get shorter as you reach the valley.
2. Hdc and dtr stitches are worked in pairs at the trough and the valley of the wave. The rest of the stitches are only worked once in a wave pattern. This is just a clue to make it easier for you to remember the stitch sequence.
Ch 80. Sl st to the first ch without twisting it. The initial chain is a multiple of 16.
Round 1: Ch 1( does not count as a st here), 1 sc in next ch and each ch across to end, sl st to first sc, do not turn.——–80 sc.
Round 2: Ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, *(ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 hdc in next st)*, repeat from * 3 more times, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, sk 1, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk the last st, sl st to first hdc, turn.-—— 40 sts+40 chs (5 waves)
Notes
1. If you forget to turn your work at the end of the rounds, your wave pattern won’t align correctly. So we will be using a marker to keep you on track.
2. The tallest dtr sts are aligned on top of the shortest hdc sts and vice versa. Keeping this in mind will let you know if you are stacking your sts right or not.
Round 3: Ch 5( counts as 1 dtr+ch 1), sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next, *(ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dtr in next, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dtr in next, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next), repeat from * 3 more times, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dtr in next, ch 1, sk the last ch, sl st to beginning ch 4.
Before you turn your work, place a locking stitch marker or a safety pin on this side of the fabric. On this marked side of the fabric, you will always work a repeat of Round 3. Turn.
Round 4: Ch 3(counts as a hdc+ch 1), sk next ch, 1 hdc in next st, *(ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dtr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next st), repeat from * 3 more times, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dtr in next st, ch1, sk next ch, 1 dtr in next st, ch1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk the last ch, sl st to beg ch 2. Turn.
Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until you have completed 10 wave rounds. Remember all your repeats of Round 3 will be worked on the side where you placed the marker.
Note: In the next wave round we will make modifications to the wave pattern to get a straighter edge. We won’t be working dtr sts anymore and we will work hdc, dc, and tr all in pairs this time.
Leveling Wave Round(worked on the side with no marker): Ch 3( counts as a hdc+ch1), sk next ch, 1 hdc in next st, *(ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 hdc in next st), repeat from * 3 more times, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 tr in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, sk last ch, sl st to beginning ch 2. Do Not Turn.
Top of the Bag
Sc Round 1: (worked on the side with no marker): Ch 1 ( does not count as a st), 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each ch and st across to end, do not sl st and do not turn.——–80 sc
Sc Round 2: 1 sc in the next st(first st of Round 1), place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog across next 2 sts, *( 1 sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog across next 2 sts), repeat from * until you end with a sc2tog in the last 2 sts right before the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.———70 sc
Sc Round 3: Work a sc in next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 sc in each st across until you end in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-70 sc
Repeat Round 3 four more times, sl st to the marked st and fasten off.
Closing the Bottom of the Bag
Notes
1. The rounds for closing the bottom of the bag should be worked on the side of the fabric with the marker.
2. You can either switch to a 5mm hook for this part or crochet tighter. The choice is yours.
3. When working the leveling round, you will have to work into the free loops of the foundation chain. Take care to go under the junction of 2 loops and not just one loop to avoid leaving holes in your work.
4. You will work hdc sts in the part above the hdc sts to add some height and along the rest of the edge you will work sc sts.
5. You can refer to Stitch Explanation at the beginning of the pattern to learn how to work a sc3tog or a hdc3tog.
Leveling Round: First find your turning chains near the beginning tail. They will be thinner than your regular stitches. Fold the bag along the turning chain. Now you know where the sides of your bag are.
You will use the first wave round as a guide to arrange your sts and decide which st goes where.
2. Leveling round before closing the bottom shut
Start the leveling round at the side where we don’t have the turning chain. Sl st to the point between 2 dtr sts on the side, pull up a loop at the same point and in the next 2 free loops of the foundation ch, YO and pull through all the 4 loops on your hook to complete a sc3tog.
*(1 sc in each free loop until you reach the free loop right before a hdc st(look for the valleys), 1 hdc in this loop and next 4 loops) repeat this sequence until you reach the next side of the bag, hdc3tog at the side
*(1 sc in each free loop until you reach the free loop right before a hdc st(look for the valleys), 1 hdc in this loop and next 4 loops), repeat from * to end, sl st to first st. Do not fasten off or turn.
Closing Row: Start sl stitching the base shut. While slip stitching, go through the front loop only of the layer near you and the back loop only of the layer behind. You can also opt to use a needle to whip stitch it shut. Turn the bag right side out.
Making the Base for the Straps
3. Mark 14 sts symmetrically on each side of the bag
4. Base of the straps completed
Now it’s time to prep your bag for adding the straps. Mark 14 sts on one side of the bag. Count 7 sts from the corner and place a marker, do the same on the backside. You will then have 14 sts marked. Make sure your markers are symmetrical before you proceed.
Note: This part should be worked on the right side of your bag where you worked your sc rounds at the top.
Row 1: Sl st to the marked st, sc2tog across the first st and the next, 1 sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog across the next st and the marked st, turn.——12 sts
Row 2: Ch 1(does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.—–12 sts
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until you have 3 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st, turn.——-10 sts
Row 4: Ch 1(does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.—–10 sts
Repeat Row 3 and 4 two more times. You should now have 6 sts.
Row 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, sc2tog, 1 sc in last 2 sts, turn.——5 sts
Row 10: Ch 1(does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in first st and next 4 sts, turn.—–5 sts
Row 11: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, sc2tog, 1 sc in last st, turn.——4 sts
Row 12: Ch 1(does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in first st and next 3 sts, Fasten off.—–4sts
Repeat the same steps on the other side of the bag but do not fasten off, continue with the yarn and work a round of sl sts all along the top edge of the bag and fasten off. This will even out the ragged edges of the strap bases you just made.
How to Crochet a Bag Strap
This yarn had a good amount of stretch. So, I took that into consideration and made my straps shorter than I actually wanted. It will stretch when you use it anyway.
Row 1: Leave a 1/2 yard tail for sewing and ch 98, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to end, turn.—-97 sc
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st st and each st across to end, fasten off with a 1/2 yard tail.
Attaching the Straps
5. Keep the edges touching and sew in place
Note: I could have worked the strap directly onto the bag but I felt a separate strap made a neater finish and a sturdier strap.
Place the strap on top of the base we made earlier. The ends should be touching each other but not overlapping as shown in the pic above. Sew securely using a yarn needle.
A plastic yarn needle works best with this yarn as long as the needle doesn’t have a giant eye. Take care to go through the gaps between the sts and not through the yarn fibers as your needle is going to get stuck and ruin your crochet fabric.
Adding the Lining
Note: Before adding the lining, weave in all the tails.
6. Place the bag on lining fabric and draw as shown
Fold the lining fabric to fit the height of the bag. Place the base of the bag along the fold. Draw along the sides of the bag with a pencil, taking care to draw 1/2 inch away from the part where you have the sc sts (see pic 6 above). Along the top edge of the bag, draw a line a little below the top edge. Cut the lining out.
7. Cut the lining and sew along the sides using a backstitch.
8. Turn the lining inside out and fold the top down by 1/2 inch
9. Insert the lining into the bag and sew the top of the lining to the sc part using matching thread.
Sew the 2 sides of the lining leaving a 3/8 inch seam. Turn the bag inside out and fold the top down by 1/2 inch. Insert the lining into the bag, align the sides and the base, sew the top of the lining to the sc part using matching thread. Take care to go only through the inner layer of the fabric when you make your sts.
Making and Attaching the Tassel
10. Making a tassel
1. Cut two 12-inch strands of yarn and keep them aside.
2. Wind yarn 10 times around a 4-1/4 inch piece of thick cardboard. Take care not to stretch the yarn while winding.
3. Pull one of the 12-inch strands through the windings and tie a couple of knots at the top.
4. Now use scissors to cut the other end. Your strands may not be of the same length and that is perfectly okay.
5. Place the tassel on top of the second 12-inch strand and tie a knot 1 cm below the top knot. Make one more knot.
6. You will find that the 12-inch strands are sticking out. Use a tapestry needle or a smaller hook to pull these ends through the knot. Do not trim them yet.
7. Now use the strands from the top knot to tie the tassel to the purse clasp. Pull the remaining yarn tail through the knot as well. Trim the base of your tassel to make all the strands the same length. Attach it to the side of your bag.
Final Thoughts on the Easy Crochet Bag Pattern
You now learned how to crochet a small bag that takes just 1 skein of yarn and a few hours of your time. I bet you will enjoy making a few of these for gifts.
Related Step by Step Crochet Bag Tutorials
Pin it for later:
