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Crochet Sling Bag Pattern, the Waffle Bag

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Crochet sling bag free pattern: Complete directions for constructing a bag that keeps its shape

Crochet Sling Bag Pattern in Brown color with golden strap


I have never experienced such profound gratification while designing a crochet bag as I have with this one. This marks my second sling bag, and I adore the outcome.


Sling bag crochet pattern finished in cream color


There are so many challenges when designing a bag with crochet. Making the bag hold its shape is hard, so I used plastic canvas to reinforce it and give it structure.



Cream crochet sling bag side view





I had always wished the stores would carry a thick t-shirt yarn. when I saw the Lazy Days yarn from Lion brand at the JoAnn store, it was like my prayers were answered. A thicker yarn will make a sturdier bag any day. 




The gorgeous texture on the bag comes from the beautiful Double waffle stitch shared by Unraveled Mittens.  It was the perfect stitch for the quilted look I was aiming for. 


2 crochet sling bags in brown and cream colors staged on white fur



Disclosure: This post might contain affiliate links and I might earn a small commission if you purchase using my links. You can read my full Disclosure Policy here.





Unlike regular crochet bags that sag, this crochet sling bag is designed to hold its shape.


1. Lion Brand Cover Story Lazy Days yarn in color Cream or Sandstone. It is a size 6 Super Bulky weight t-shirt yarn.

2. An K (6.5)mm hook. Use any size hook to attain the gauge.

3. Golden Chain Strap. I used 47.2″ strap for my bag. You can also use a crochet strap in its place.

4. A pair of sew-on magnetic snap buttons 

5.  1/4  yard lining fabric. 100% cotton or cotton blend is best.

6. Plastic canvas to make the bag sturdy.

7. Matching sewing thread and needle to attach the plastic canvas, magnetic snaps,  and lining to your crochet bag.

9. A metal tapestry needle to weave yarn through the chain strap 

10. Any gold embellishment for the flap. I used a piece from a hair tie. Brooches, hair clips, etc. are some good choices if you can sew them on. 



Finished Size of the Crochet Sling Bag

9  inches wide and inches tall.




180 Yards



Stitch Abbreviations

ch: chain

st: stitch

sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sk: skip


9.5 sc sts and  10 Rows= 4″ 



Stitch Explanation

fpdc (front post double crochet): See a tutorial for front post double crochet on my blog here: Front Post and Back Post Double Crochet Tutorial.


sc2tog: Pull up a loop in the first stitch specified, pull up another loop in the next st, YO, and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook.
spsc (spike single crochet): The spike single crochet stitch is worked just as a single crochet stitch, but instead of working into the current row where you are crocheting, you drop down and work it into a row below that current row. Insert your hook into the next stitch 1 row below the current row, and pull up a loop to the same height as your current row. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook to complete your stitch (just like a regular single crochet).

More Crochet Bag Patterns 

Crochet Bag from 4 Rectangles

Quick Crochet Market Bag Pattern

Water Bottle Carrier



Crochet Sling Bag Pattern


Body of sling crochet bag pattern completed

1. The body of the bag is completed

Pattern Note
The bag is worked in 3 pieces, a long rectangle for the body and 2 small pieces for the sides. 

Textured Part

Chain 27.
Row 1:1 dc in 4th ch from hook (beginning ch 3 counts as a dc), 1 dc in each ch remaining across to end, turn.————25 dc including beginning ch 3
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and for the rest of the pattern), 1 dc in same st as ch 1, 1 fpdc in next 3 sts, *( 1 dc in next 2 sts, 1 fpdc in next 3 sts), repeat from * until you only have the beginning ch left, 1 dc on top of beginning ch, turn.—–25 sts
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 dc in same st as ch 1, 1 dc in next 3 sts, *(1 fpdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 3 sts), repeat from * to last st, 1 dc in last st, turn.——–25 sts
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 dc in same st as ch 1, 1 fpdc in next 3 sts, *( 1 dc in next 2 sts, 1 fpdc in next 3 sts), repeat from * until you only have 1 dc left, 1 dc in last dc, turn.—–25 sts

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until your piece measures 12-1/4″ long and you have completed 22 rows.



Row 23: Ch 1, 1 dc in 1st st, dc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, 1 fpdc in next 2 sts, *(1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 fpdc in next 2 sts), repeat from * to last 4 sts, 1 dc in next st, dc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 dc in last st, turn.———–23 sts



Smooth Single Crochet Part

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and for the rest of the rows), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next st, *(sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts), repeat to last st, 1 sc in last st, turn.———18 sc



Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across to end, turn.——-18 sc



Repeat Row 2 ten more times until you have a total of 12 sc rows. The sc part will now measure 4-3/4″ tall from the base of the first sc row.



Border Around the Rectangle

Work on the same side you worked your last sc row without turning your work. Ch 1 at the corner, 1 sc in the corner, distribute sc sts evenly along the left edge of the rectangle until you reach the next corner, 3 sc in the corner, continue to work sc along the foundation chain side by working 1 sc into each of the free loops on the foundation chain edge until you reach the next corner, 3 sc in corner, distribute sc along the right edge until you reach the next corner, ch 1 at the corner, work sl sts into each of the sts along the last row, fasten off at the corner.  See pic 1 above for the completed body of the bag.



Pattern Notes

1. Before you proceed,  check if the above sc border is straight along the left and right edges of the textured part’s first 6 to 7 inches. If not, unravel and redo it because this is the part that will create the front flap and should have uniform edges.


2. Weave in any tails left into the wrong side of the fabric. Use your hook to weave in the tails. If you prefer using a tapestry needle, you will have to use a plastic tapestry needle or it will get caught in the yarn fabric. Work your needle in and out through the gaps in the stitches and avoid poking into the yarn itself. 



Adding Plastic Canvas

Plastic canvas strips added

2. Position plastic canvas strips as shown and sew them down at the points indicated by the red dots.



Cut out 2 pieces of plastic canvas, one 4″ wide and 8″ long and the other 3-1/2 inches wide and 7-1/2 inches long. The plastic canvas pieces will be attached to the top and bottom of the rectangle, leaving the middle free as shown in pic 2 above.



The bigger piece goes on the textured part and the smaller one on the single crochet area. There should be 8 rows of squares free in the middle part and the plastic canvas pieces should be attached leaving a gap of 1/2″ from the left and right edges of the crochet fabric and 7/8″ away from the top and bottom edges (see pic 2 again).



Slanting cut made to make plastic canvas match the tapering shape

3. Slanting cut made to match the tapering top part



So place them on the fabric and trim any excess plastic canvas along the length and breadth if needed. For the smaller piece, you will have to make a slanting cut near the 2 corners of the plastic canvas to make it match the tapering of the single crochet part as shown in pic 3 above.



Using a regular sewing needle and matching thread, sew down the plastic canvas to the crochet fabric at a  few places. I sewed down at 5 points as shown in pic 2 above. 



Lining the Purse


Lining folded along the edges

4. Fold the edges of the lining inwards and iron



Place the crochet piece on the lining fabric and trace loosely around it. Cut the lining out, fold 1/4 inch along the longer sides and 1/2 inch along the shorter sides, and iron to keep the folds in place as shown in pic 4 above. 



Lining placed on top of the plastic canvas and pinned in place

5. Lining placed on top of the plastic canvas with the folded side down and pinned in place



Place the lining on top of the crochet fabric folded side facing down. It should now completely hide the plastic canvas but leave the edges of the crochet fabric free to work a sc row later. See pic 5 above.


Readjust and iron the folds again if needed. Pin the lining to the bag and use the sewing needle and thread to whip-stitch the lining to the bag. 



Adding the Magnetic Snaps

Attach snaps to corners of the textured area

6. Snaps attached to the flap


Sew the thinner side of the magnetic snaps to each corner of the lining covering the textured area as shown in pic 6 above. Go through all three 3 layers when sewing your snaps, but be careful not to go over the jutting fpdc sts outside. 



Sides (Make 2)

Side pieces of the crochet sling bag

7. Sides of the sling crochet bag completed



Row 1: Ch 6, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to end, turn.——–5 sc



Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in remaining 4 sts, turn.—–5 sc



Note: To work a spsc (look under Stitch Explanations at the beginning of the pattern),  insert your hook into the tiny gaps you see under the current row.

Row 3: Ch 1, spsc into sc st one row below the first st, spsc into the next 4 sts one row below, turn.—–5 spsc



Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until your piece measures 4-3/4″ tall (the height of your single crochet part). Fasten off. Finished side piece is 2-1/2 inches wide at the last row and 2-1/4″ at the foundation chain edge. See pic 7 above for finished side pieces.


 I chose the spike stitch side as the front side. Weave the ends into the back of the side piece. Make one more side piece following the same pattern. 



Attaching the Sides 

Attaching the sides of the sling bag

8. Curve the body around the side and single crochet them together. The narrow foundation chain side should be on top



Note: When attaching the sides to the body of the bag, work over the beginning tail to weave it in as you go. 



Curve the bag’s body around the side piece, ensuring that the narrow edge is on top as shown in pic 8 above. Attach the 2 pieces with a sc row, and fasten off.  I have placed pins in the picture, but you can attach the pieces as you go. Weave in the ending tail inside the side piece using your hook.



Attach the second side piece in the same way and weave in the tails. Push the sides inward.



Preparing the Chain Strap (Optional)

Pass yarn through the chain links

9. Pass yarn through the chain links



Cut out a strand of yarn that is around 3 times the length of your chain strap. Thread it through a metal tapestry needle, leave 6″ of yarn, run the yarn in and out of the chain links as shown in pic 9 above, leave 1-1/2″  tail, and trim. Fold the 1-1/2″ tail over the strap, fold the frayed edge inward for 1/2″, and sew it down to the yarn passed through the strap using a sewing needle and thread. Repeat the same with the other edge after trimming it to 1-1/2″ length as well. 


Attaching the Strap

Clip the golden strap to the sides of the bag.



Finishing the Sling Bag Crochet Pattern

Finished sling crochet bag free pattern

10. Snaps attached to the single crochet part to complete the bag


Sew the other half of the magnetic snaps onto the corresponding points on the single crochet part as shown in pic 10 above. I am sure you would have enjoyed trying this crochet sling bag tutorial.



More Crochet Bag Patterns 

Easiest Crochet Bag from 4 Rectangles

 Crochet Market Tote Pattern

Water Bottle Carrier


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Crochet Sling Bag Pattern, the Waffle Bag

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