3 Weight Yarn Crochet Blanket, a Textured Blanket
If any of you have been following me for a while, you know that I adore texture, and this blanket is no exception. A one-row repeat stitch is employed in crafting this exquisite crochet blanket with 3 weight yarn.
While most of my blankets typically utilize thicker yarn, I’m now aiming to create a new collection with lighter-weight yarns. Though my heart is always with quick projects, this blanket was certainly a joy to make.
It’s rare for me to design monochrome blankets as I relish adding a splash of color to my creations, so this venture was a little out of my comfort zone. Let me know if you would like to see more of these kinds of blankets. Your feedback matters!
The textured body paired with a unique shell border makes this a perfect baby shower gift. So what are you waiting for? Grab your hook and yarn, and let’s get started.
Crochet Blanket with 3 Weight Yarn
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Materials
1. DK weight yarn. Bernat Softee Baby Yarn in Soft Peach was used for the sample blanket.
2. A US size 7 (4.5mm) hook and a G (4mm) hook
3. Tapestry needle to weave in the ends
Finished Size
The finished blanket is 36″ wide and 39″ long including the border. It was 33″ wide and 37″ before adding the border.
Yardage
Each skein of Bernat Softee Baby yarn is 362 yards long and the blanket takes 5-1/2 skeins in total.
Stitch Abbreviations
The pattern is written in US terms.
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
YO: yarn over
sk: skip
fpdc: front post double crochet (explanation is given below)
RS: right side of your crochet fabric
Stitch Explanations
fpdc (front post double crochet): See a tutorial for front post double crochet on my blog here: Front Post and Back Post Double Crochet Tutorial.
V-st: (dc, ch 1, dc) all worked into the same ch-1 space.
sc2tog: Pull up a loop in each of the 2 spaces specified, YO, and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook to complete a sc2tog.
Picot: ch 3, sl st to 3rd ch from hook
shell: (3 dc, picot 3 dc) all worked into the same ch-4 space
5 dc shell: (5 dc, picot, 5 dc) all worked into the same ch-4 space
More free blanket patterns
Gauge
Pattern for gauge swatch
With 4.5 mm hook, ch 43, and follow the pattern for the blanket below. You will get 8 repeats in each row. Keep repeating Row 2 until your piece is a square shape. Then measure for gauge.
5 repeats and 10 Rows= 4″
Pattern
Pattern Note
The blanket will look wider when you have worked only a few rows but will get narrower as you add more rows.
Ch 193. You can chain any multiple of 5+3 if you want to adjust the width of your blanket.
Row 1: 2 dc in 5th ch from hook (first 3 skipped chs count as a dc), ch 1, 2 dc in next st, *(sk next 3 chs, 2 dc in next ch, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch), repeat from * to last 2 chs, sk next ch, 1 dc in last ch, place a marker on this side of the fabric to indicate the RS and turn.———- 38 shell repeats+ 2 dc
Note: At the end of every row from now on, you will work your last st into the top of the beginning ch-2 and not into the beginning ch-3. This will make your edges straight.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk next dc, *(1 fpdc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 space, 1 fpdc in next dc, sk next 2 dc), repeat from * until just 1 dc and beginning ch-3 is left, sk next dc, 1 dc on top of beg ch-2, turn.———38 shell repeats+ 2 dc
Keep repeating Row 2 until your blanket is approximately 37 inches long and you are on the RS or marked side of the blanket. Do not fasten off. Proceed to work on the border pattern below.
Border
Pattern Notes
1. The blanket will now be pretty straight along the left and right edges but the foundation chain edge and the last row can be a little wider and wavy. The first round of sc will fix it.
2. To learn how to distribute sc sts on the foundation side, take a look at Pic 1 below before you start the border.
3. The smaller 4mm hook is only used for the last round of the border.

1. Shows how to distribute sc sts along the foundation ch side
Round 1: Ch 1 at the corner, pivot your blanket and work along the left edge distributing sc sts as evenly as possible until you reach the next corner, 3 sc in the corner, 1 sc in the gap right after the corner, *(1 sc in the gap between next 2 dc of the repeat, 1 sc in the next gap between sts, sc2tog across the gap between next 2 dc and the next ch-3 space), repeat from * until 1 repeat is left, 1 sc in the gap between next 2 dc of the last repeat, 1 sc in the next gap between sts, 1 sc in the gap between next 2 dc, 1 sc in the gap after the last repeat, 3 sc in the corner.
Pivot your work and continue to distribute sc sts as evenly as possible along the right edge. Once you reach the next corner, sk next dc (the first dc of the first repeat), 1 sc in next dc, 1 sc in next ch-1 space, sk next dc, 1 sc in next dc ( the last dc of the repeat), *(sk next dc (the first dc of the next repeat), 1 sc in next dc, 1 sc in next ch-1 space, sk next dc, 1 sc in next dc ), repeat from * and after working sc sts over the last repeat, 2 sc in the corner, sl st to the first sc on the left edge of the blanket, do not turn and do not fasten off.
Note: In Round 2, the loops should end at the corners and not curve around them (see pic 2 below). So, as we approach each corner, we will be making adjustments to achieve that.

2. Loop curving around the corner

3. Loop ends at the corner
Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as a sc and ch 4), sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, *( ch 4, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * until 1 to 3 sts are left before the corner, then pick one of the options below when you get near the corner.
Option 1: If there is only 1 st left before the corner, unravel the last 2 loops you worked and ch 4, sk next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 4, sk next 3 sts, 1 sc in the corner.
Option 2: If there are 2 sts left before the corner, ch 4, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in the corner.
Option 3: If there are 3 sts left before the corner, ch 4, sk 3 sts, 1 sc in the corner.
Continue working ch-4, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st, and each time you are near a corner pick one of the options above. Once you have worked all around the blanket, ch 4, sl st to the first ch of the first ch-5 loop, do not turn.
Round 3: Sl st into the first 2 chs of the ch loop to reach its middle, 1 sc in the ch-4 space, *(ch 4, sc in next ch-4 space), repeat from * all the way around and at the end make ch-4 and sl st to the sc at the base of the first ch-loop of this round, do not turn.
Notes
1. A 5 dc shell ( ie, 5dc, picot 5dc) has to be worked in every corner ch loop to make your blanket symmetrical. Feel free to add more dc on either side of the picot if you need more give, like (6dc, picot 6 dc) or even (5 dc, picot 6dc), etc. The idea is to make the corners lie flat with these adjustments.
Round 4: Switch to the smaller 4mm hook. Sl st into the first 2 chs of the ch loop, sc in the ch-4 space, shell in next ch-4 space, *(1 sc in the next ch-4 space, shell in next ch-4 space, repeat from * to the next corner until 1 or no loop is left before the corner loop, then work one of the options below.
Option 1: If there is 1 loop free before the corner ch loop after you worked your shell, sc into the next ch-4 space, 5 dc shell in the corner space.
Option 2: If there are no loops left before the corner ch loop after you worked your shell, work a sc into the same ch-4 space as your last shell, and work a 5 dc shell in the corner space.
Continue working *(1 sc in the next ch-4 space, shell in the next ch-4 space), and each time you are near a corner pick one of the options above. Once you work a 5 dc shell in the last corner, sl st to the first sc of the round. Fasten off.
Finishing the Weight 3 Yarn Crochet Blanket
Weave in any tails left on the back side of the blanket. Enjoy!
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