Crochet a Poncho, Faux Cable Poncho

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Learn how to crochet a poncho from 2 rectangles and beginner-friendly cables made with chain stitches.

 

 

 

 

If you have been following me for some time, you already know that I don’t use much cable work in my designs. Though I love the look of cables, I find it hard to explain a cable pattern clearly. So I came up with this chain version that even beginners can work up easily.

 

This pattern was a joy to make. If I would have used regular cables, it would take me days to crochet a poncho that looks this complicated, but it took me only 2 days. You will be surprised at how easy it is.

 

 

 

I had used chain stitches to create cables in my Adeline fingerless mittens pattern, so I thought why not crochet a poncho with the same technique.

 

It is rare you can make a design that looks complicated but is very easy to work. I am really proud of this design, can you tell?

 

 

Crochet a Poncho 

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $3.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”

 

You can pin it for later here. 

 

Materials

1. Worsted weight(size 4) yarn. I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn in color Fisherman for the sample poncho.

2. Hook I(5.5mm) and hook J(6mm) crochet hooks. Use any size hook to attain gauge.

3. Six 1-1/4 inch wooden buttons.

4. Tapestry needle for weaving in the tails.

 

Finished Size

Note: The measurements include the ribbing.

S/M: 25 inches wide and 26-1/2 inches from shoulder to hem

L/XL: 27 inches wide and 29-1/2 inches from shoulder to hem

2XL/3XL: 30 inches wide and 29-1/2 inches  from shoulder to hem

 

Yardage

S/M: 8 skeins of 170 yards each

L/XL: 10 skeins of 170 yards each

2XL/3XL: 11 skeins of 170 yards each

 

Stitch Abbreviations

ch- chain

sl st- slip stitch

dc-double crochet

BL: Back loop only

YO: yarn over

 

Gauge

 

Gauge for left and right panel with I(5.5mm) hook

12 dc  and  7 rows= 4-inch square

 

Gauge Swatch for middle panel with cables (J hook)

13.5 dc and 5 1/2 rows= 4-inch square

 

Stitch Explanations

1. BL (Work only in Back Loop of the stitch): When you are asked to work in back loops only, you work inserting your hook though only one of the loops of the stitch leaving one loop free as shown below.

 

 

 

 

2. dc2tog: It is a decrease that joins two dc sts into one. *(YO, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop,  YO, pull through 2 loops), repeat from * YO and pull through the remaining 3 loops on your hook.

 

 

3. Bpdc and fpdc(Back post and fron post double crochet): These are used for the neck and the bottom and side ribbing. You can find a tutorial here: Front Post and Back Post Double Crochet.

 

 

Poncho Crochet Pattern

Pattern Notes

1. Stitch counts are given in the order S/M(L/XL, 2XL/3XL)

 

2. The poncho is made by seaming 2 rectangles at the shoulder.

 

3. The poncho front is worked from side to side and can be seen as 3 panels, a left panel, a middle panel with cables, and a right panel.

 

4. The back of the poncho is also worked from side to side but without any cable work.

 

 

 

FRONT-LEFT PANEL

With I(5.5mm) hook, ch 78(86,86)

 

 

Row 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook( skipped ch counts as first dc), 1 dc in each ch across to end, turn.—-76(84, 84) dc

 

 

Note: I work a ch 2 for the beginning chain but if you chain tight, you can ch 3.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 2(counts as a dc), 1 dc in each st across ending with a dc on top of turning ch, turn. ———76(84, 84) dc

 

 

Repeat Row 2 until you have 9(11, 14) dc rows. 

 

 

Increase Rows

Row 10 (For S/M only): Ch 2 ( counts as a dc), 1 dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next, *( 1 dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next), repeat from * to last st, 1 dc in last st, turn.———86 dc

 

 

Row 12(For L/XL only):  Ch 2 ( counts as a dc), 1 dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next, *(1 dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next), repeat from * to last 7 sts, 1 dc in last 7 sts, turn.———-95 dc

 

 

Row 15(For 2xl/3Xl only): Repeat the row above for size L/XL.——-95 dc

 

 

FRONT- MIDDLE PANEL

Notes

1. The middle panel is worked with a J(6 mm) hook. Gauge is given above. Use any size hook to attain gauge.

 

 

2. Since there are slip stitches in the middle panel, your work will shrink. That is why we added increases in the previous row and switch to a bigger hook.

 

 

3. Work your sl sts loosely. To work a sl st, pull up the loop on your hook to make it bigger before slip stitching. Once you do it a few times you will start doing it subconsciously. Watch this video on how to sl st loosely: 

 

 

 

Row 11(13, 16): Ch 1 ( does not counts as a st), 1 sl st in the BL of the same st as ch 1, 1 sl st in the BL of each st across ending with a sl st on top of beginning ch 2, turn.———-86(95, 95) sl sts

 

 

 

Note: For the middle panel, the turning ch is not counted as a st and you work a ch 3 and not ch2. This will keep the edges straight.

 

 

Row 12( 14, 17): Ch 3 ( does not count as a st), 1 dc in the BL of the same st as ch 3, 1 dc in the BL of each st across to end, turn. ———86(95, 95)dc sts

 

 

You can now see a vertical ribbing on your work.

 

 

Row 13(15, 18): Ch 1 ( does not counts as a st), 1 sl st in the BL of the same st as ch 1, 1 sl st in the back loop of each st across. DO NOT sl st on top of beginning ch 3, turn.——–86(95, 95)sl sts

 

 

Repeat the above two rows until you have 15 lines of ribbing and you end with a slip stitch row. The 15th ribbing will be at the very edge of your fabric now.

 

 

We will add the faux cables onto the ribbing after we complete the Front of the poncho.

 

 

FRONT-RIGHT PANEL

Note: Switch back to I(5.5mm) hook now. 

 

Row 1 (For S/M only): Ch 2 ( counts as a dc), working in BL throughout,  1 dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog in next, *( 1 dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog in next, 1 dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog in next), repeat from * to last st, 1 dc in last st, turn.———76 dc

 

 

Row 1(L/XL and 2XL/3XL): Ch 2 ( counts as a dc),working in BL throughout, 1 dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog in next, *(1 dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog in next), repeat from * to last 7 sts, 1 dc in last 7 sts, turn.———-84 dc

 

 

Row 2(All sizes): Ch 2( counts as a dc), 1 dc in next st and each st across ending with a dc on top of beginning ch-2, turn.——–76(84, 84) dc

 

 

Repeat Row 2 until you have 10(12, 15) dc rows after the last ribbing. Fasten off. 

 

 

Faux Cables for Crochet Poncho

Notes

1. The faux cables are made using chains that are attached to the vertical ribbing to form a diamond pattern.
2. Switch to J(6mm) hook for the faux cables. 

 

 

Pattern for Faux Cables

 

 

Overview: You start from the point shown by the red dot and work upwards along the red arrow to complete one side of the diamond. Once you reach the top you work down the brown arrow to complete the mirror image of the first half you made.

 

 

The three orange vertical lines indicate the vertical ribbing. You can watch a video here:

 

 

 

 

Row 1 of the Cable Pattern(Shown as a blue line in pic 2 above)

 

 

Lay the front of the poncho with the rows running horizontally. Take care to keep the straighter edge to your right as this will form the hem of your poncho.

 

 

Sl st to the base of the first ribbing as shown by the red dot and work between the first and second ribbing (see blue line in pic 2 and pic 3 above).

 

 

Ch 3, sl st to the 5th st on the second ribbing, *(ch 4, sl st to the 9th st (counted from the previous sl st made on the same ridge) on the first ribbing, ch 4, sl sl to the 9th st on the 2nd ribbing), repeat from * until your zig zag pattern hits the top of the front piece. —–9-1/2(10-1/2) zig zags made with chains.

 

 

Row 2 of Cable( Shown as a green line in pic 2 above)

 

 

Rotate your work 180 degrees so you have your first ribbing on top and you can work from your right to left as in regular crochet.

 

 

Now, you will work between the second and third ribbing to make the mirror image of the cable you already made( see green line in pic 2 and pic 4).

 

 

*(Ch 4, sl st to the point opposite to the one made on the first ridge, ch 4, sl st to the middle ridge at the same point as the first cable you made). Repeat from * 8(9) more times, ch 3 and sl st to the end of the 3rd ridge. Do not fasten off.———-9-1/2(10-1/2)diamonds

 

 

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 to keep making mirror images of the previous row until you have completed working between all the ribbing. Take care to rotate your work 180 degrees every time you finish a cable row. You should always be working the cable from your right to left like in regular crochet.  Fasten off. 

 

 

BACK OF PONCHO

Notes

1. The back of the poncho is worked with an I(5.5mm) hook. 

2. The back is fully worked in dc sts with no cables.

 

Ch 78(86,86)

 

Row 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook( skipped ch counts as first dc), 1 dc in each ch across to end, turn.—-76(84, 84) dc

 

 

Note: I work a ch 2 for the beginning chain but if you chain tight, you can ch 3.

 

Row 2: Ch 2(counts as a dc), 1 dc in each st across ending with a dc on top of turning ch, turn. ———76(84, 84) dc

 

 

Repeat Row 2 until your back piece is the same width as the front piece, fasten off. 

 

 

FINISHING THE PONCHO

Seaming the Shoulders(J, 6mm hook)

Place the front side and backside with the right sides touching each other, leave a 10-1/2 inch gap for the neck and seam the shoulders with loose sl sts. Turn the poncho inside out.

 

 

Making the Turtle Neck

Use a J(6mm) hook and work the neck on the right side of your poncho.

 

Round 1: Sl st to the shoulder seam, work 2 sc in the seam, distribute sc evenly to next seam, 2 sc in the seam, distribute sc along back, sl st to first sc, do not turn——–around 78 sc sts

 

 

Round 2: Ch 3( counts as a dc), 1 dc in each st round, sl st to beginning ch-3, do not turn.——–78 dc

 

 

Round 3: Ch 3( counts as a bpdc), fpdc in next st, *(bpdc in next st, fpdc in next), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-3, do not turn.——–78 dc

 

 

Round 4: Ch 3( counts as a bpdc), fpdc in next fpdc, *(bpdc in next bpdc, fpdc in next fpdc), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-3, do not turn.——–78 dc

 

 

Repeat Row 4 until your turtle neck is 5-1/2 inches or the height you like. Fasten off.

 

 

Hem Ribbing

Notes

1. Follow the same pattern below to add ribbing to the bottom of the front and back of your poncho.

2. You don’t have to get the exact stitch counts given as long as your edge stays straight.

 

 

Row 1: Continue with J(6mm) hook and distribute 73(81, 89) sc sts along the hem, turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 2( counts as a dc), 1 dc in each st across to end, turn. —–73(81, 89) dc

 

 

Row 3: Ch 3( counts as a bpdc), fpdc in next st, *(bpdc in next st, fpdc in next), repeat from * to end, turn.

—–73(81, 89) dc

 

 

Row 4: Ch 3( counts as a bpdc), fpdc in next fpdc, *(bpdc in next bpdc, fpdc in next fpdc), repeat from * to end, fasten off.——–73(81, 89) dc

 

 

Side Ribbing

Row 1: With J(6mm) hook, sl st to the side of the bottom ribbing, work 6 dc across the edge of the ribbing, 1 dc in each dc across, 1 dc at the seam, 1 dc in each st across, 6 dc across the bottom ribbing at the next corner, turn. —–165(181, 181) dc.

 

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 of the Hem Ribbing above. Fasten off and weave in any tails left.

 

 

Adding the Buttons

Sew on the buttons to the inside of the back of your poncho. You can place 3 buttons from the waist down. The gaps in the side ribbing will be used as buttonholes.

 

You might also like my Sunset Poncho Crochet Pattern and my Kalisha Poncho Crochet Pattern. 

 

You might also like my Uptown Poncho Crochet Pattern featured on Allfreecrochet.com.

 

 

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