Get ready to crochet the perfect crochet baby dress for your little girl using this free pattern! Whether you’re a beginner or an expert crocheter, this pattern is easy to follow and comes in 6 different sizes for baby and toddler girls.
This latest free crochet pattern is not only adorable but also practical and comfortable for those hot summer days or even special occasions. Made with lightweight yarn and an open-stitch design, this dress will keep your little girl cool and comfy all day long.
The bodice is a long rectangle with no arm hole shaping and the skirt has increases only in the first row. This is an original pattern that will help you make perfect baby dresses each and every time.
Baby patterns are always a delight to make and the joy of seeing your little lady in them is simply unmatched. Make this crocheted baby dress separately or as part of baby sets with hats and booties to match. Make it for your baby girl or as a handmade gift for a baby shower.
Pattern instructions for sizes Newborn, 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, 18 months, and 24 months are included. A larger hook is used with DK weight yarn to add drape to this sweet little dress.
Making baby crochet patterns give you a special joy and this one is no different.
So, grab your crochet hook, and let’s get started on this fun and exciting project!
Crochet Baby Dress
Materials
1. DK weight, size 3 yarn in three colors. The colors used are Cotton Candy, Soft Gray, and White from Snuggly Wuggly Yarn by Loops and Threads.
2. Hook- J (6mm) for the bodice and skirt. Use any size hook to attain the gauge. Hook G (4.5)mm for the strap.
3. Two 1/4-inch buttons for back closure and four 3/4-inch wooden buttons for the straps.
4. Yarn needle to weave in the ends
Finished Size
Finished Chest
Newborn: 15-1/2″ (to fit 14″ chest)
3 months: 17-1/2″ (to fit 16″ chest)
6 months: 18-1/2″ (to fit 17″ chest)
12 months: 19-1/2″ (to fit 18″ chest)
18 months: 20-1/2″ (to fit 19″ chest)
24 months: 22-1/2″ (to fit 21″ chest)
Skirt Length (Lace Part)
Newborn: 7-1/2″
3 months: 8″
6 months: 9″
12 months: 10″
18 months: 11″
24 months: 13″
Gauge
Bodice Gauge
With J(6mm) hook, 15 dc stitches = 4 inches
Lace Pattern Gauge

1. Shows how to measure gauge
With J (6mm)hook:
2 pattern repeats = 4 inches
4 dc Rows with the chain rows in between= 3 1/4 inches tall
Stitch Abbreviations
The pattern is in standard American terms.
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
sk: skip
st: stitch
fptr: front post triple crochet
YO: yarn over
RS: Right Side
WS: Wrong Side
Stitch Explanations
Back Post Double Crochet (Bpdc): It is worked just like regular double crochet except for how you insert your hook. You can see a tutorial on the front post and back post double crochet here: Front Post and Back Post Double Crochet Tutorial
Front Post Triple(Fptr): It is worked just like regular triple crochet except for how you insert your hook. For a fptr, the hook is inserted in the same way as a front post double crochet. See the same link above for the front post double crochet.
YO twice, insert your hook around the post of the st specified from the front of your work, [YO, pull through two loops] 3 times. ——-fptr completed.
Yardage
Note: Yardage is given for the main color pink. You might need about half the quantity of pink yarn for the rest of the two colors.
Newborn(NB): 180Yards
3 months: 200 Yards
6 months: 220 Yards
12 months: 240 Yards
18 months: 260 Yards
24 months: 280 Yards
Crochet Baby Dress Pattern
Pattern Note
The instructions are written for the smallest size with stitch counts for bigger sizes given in brackets in the order NB (3mos, 6 mos) (12 mos, 18 mos, 24 mos).
Bodice
The bodice is first worked as a long rectangular piece.
With J hook Ch 57 (66, 69) (72, 78, 84). The initial chain is a multiple of 3+3.
Row 1: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. ———56 (65, 68) (71, 77, 83) sts
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in each st across. Turn.———-56 (65, 68) (71, 77, 83) sts
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), *(Bpdc in next, sk next st, fptr around post of next st, working behind the fptr just made, 1 dc in the skipped st), repeat from * until only the turning ch is left, 1 hdc in top of turning ch.———–56 (65, 68) (71, 77, 83) sts
Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 1 hdc in each st across. Turn. ——–56 (65, 68) (71, 77, 83) sts
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until your work measures 2 1/2( 3, 3) (3, 4, 4 )inches and you end in a fptr Row. I got 2(3, 3) (3, 4, 4) fptr rows.
Waist and Buttonhole Band
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not counts as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Do not fasten off. Continue to work the buttonhole band as given below.——-56 (65, 68) (71, 77, 83) sts
Buttonhole Band
A buttonhole band is worked into the back bodice of the dress before you start working the skirt onto it. The ch 1 and skip 1 in row 3 below will form eyelet buttonholes.
Row 1: You will be on the wrong side of your bodice. Ch 1 (not counted as a st) at the corner and start working along the short side of the rectangle as shown in pic 2 below, work sc sts distributed as evenly as possible across the row ends. I worked 10(12, 12 ) (12, 16, 16) sc. Turn.

2. Work the first row of the buttonhole band as shown
Row 2: Ch 1 ( not counted as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3 (Buttonhole Row): Ch 1, 1 sc in each st till you are halfway up the band, ch 1, skip 1 st, 1sc in each st across till 2 stitches left, ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 sc in last st. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1 (not counted as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each chain space and st across. Do not fasten off.
Skirt
Notes
1. The shorter sides of the bodice (rectangle) are joined at the base of the buttonhole band. Then the lace skirt is worked in the round directly onto the bodice.
2. After the first two rounds, you do not turn at the end of rounds.
Round 1 (Worked on RS): See Pic 3 below. Overlap the buttonhole band over the other shorter side of the bodice, keeping 4 stitches under it (beginning ch is also counted as a st), ch 1 (not counted as a st here), insert your hook through both the layers and work 4 sc sts across the buttonhole band, *(sk next st, 1 sc in next, 1 sc in skipped st), repeat from * till the end, sl st to first sc. Turn.———–56 (65, 68) (71, 77, 83) sts in the round

3. Overlap the buttonhole band over 4 sts and work in the direction of the arrow
Round 2 (Only for size NB): Ch 1 (not counted as a st), 2 sc in the same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next st, (1sc in next, 2sc in next st)2 times, 2 sc in next 2 sts, *(1sc in next, 2sc in next st), repeat from * until you have 8 sts left, 2 sc in next 2 sts, (1sc in next, 2sc in next st)2 times, 2 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to first sc. Turn. ———88 sts in the round
Round 2 (Only for size 3 Months): Ch 1( not counted as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next st*(2 sc in next, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * till one st left, 1 sc in last st. Sl st to first sc. Turn.—————96 sts in the round
Round 2 (Only for size 6 Months): Ch 1( not counted as a st), 2 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next st, *(1sc in next, 2sc in next st), repeat from * until you have 2 sts left, 2 sc in each of the last two sts. Sl st to first sc. Turn.——– 104 sts in the round
Round 2 (Only for size 12 Months): Ch 1( not counted as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, [1sc in next, 2sc in next st]2 times, *(1sc in next, 2sc in next st)4 times, 2sc in next 2 sts, repeat from * until you have 6 sts left, [1sc in next, 2sc in next st]3 times sl st to first sc. Turn. ———112 sts in the round
Round 2 (Only for size 18 Months): Ch 1( not counted as a st), 2 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next st, [1sc in next, 2sc in next 3 sts]twice, *(1sc in next, 2sc in next st), repeat from * until you have 11 sts left, [1sc in next, 2sc in next 3 sts]twice, 2 sc in last 2 sts.————-120 sts in the round
Round 2 (Only for size 24 Months): Ch 1( not counted as a st), 2 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next st, (1sc in next, 2sc in next st)2 times, 2 sc in next 2 sts, *(1sc in next, 2sc in next st), repeat from * until you have 9 sts left, 2 sc in next 2 sts, (1sc in next, 2sc in next st)2 times, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next, 2 sc in last st, sl st to first sc. Turn. ———128 sts in the round
First Stripe (pink)
Note: Round 3 is worked over a multiple of 8 sts and is worked on the RS of the dress. You do not turn at the end of rounds from here on.
Round 3: Ch 1 ( not counted as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, *(ch 5, sk 5, 1 sc in next, ch 3, sk 1, 1 sc in next), repeat from * and after last ch 3 sl st to first sc. Do not turn.———-11(12, 13) (14, 15, 16) ch-5 and ch-3 loops
Round 4: Sl st to next ch-5 space, ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 4 dc in the same ch-5 space, *(ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, 5 dc in next ch-5 space), repeat from * and after working 1 sc in last ch-3 space, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Do not turn.
Round 5: Ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-2 space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-2 space, *(ch 5, 1 sc in next ch 2 space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-2 space), repeat from * and after you work a sc in the last ch-2 space, sl st directly to first ch of the beginning ch-6 loop of the round. Do not turn.
Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 until you have a total of 3(4, 3) (4, 5, 4) dc rounds and you end in Round 4. Fasten off.
Second Stripe (gray)
Note
How to join with a sc: You make a slip knot and keeping the knot on your hook, you insert it into the ch-2 space, pull up a loop, YO, and pull through both the loops on the hook.
Round 1: Now you will switch to the second color for your skirt (gray in the sample). Join the new color with a sc in the ch-2 loop right before the point of fasten off, see pic 4 below, *(ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-2 space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-2 space), repeat from * and after sc in last ch-2 space, ch 3, sl st to first sc. Do not turn.

4. Join the new color in the ch-2 loop right before the point where you fastened off
Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 for stripe 1 above until you have a total of 3 (3, 4) (4, 4, 5) dc rounds and you end in Round 4. Fasten off.
Third Stripe (White)
Follow the same pattern for Second Stripe and repeat until you have a total of 3(3, 4) (4, 4, 5) dc rounds and you end in Round 4. Fasten off.
Shoulder Straps (Make 2)
Notes
1. The two shoulder straps are stitched to the dress on the front (buttons in the front are only for embellishment and can be avoided) and the strap has a button closure at the back to make it adjustable.
2. 2 inches will be reduced from the strap length after you stitch and button them up.
The Length of the Finished Straps
NB: 8 inches
3 mos: 8 ½ inches
6 mos: 9 inches
12 mos: 9 ½ inches
18 months: 10 inches
24 months: 10 ½ inches
Using G(4.5mm) hook, ch 38 (40, 42, 44, 46, 48).
Row 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, *(sk next st, 1 dc in next, working behind the dc just made, 1 dc in skipped st), repeat from * till 2 sts left, 1 dc in last 2 ts. Do not turn.
Now you will sl st all around the strap. 2 sl sts along the post of the last dc made, 1 sl st in each free loop of the foundation ch, 1 sl st in each of the beginning ch-3, 1 sc in each st across, sl st to first sl st, fasten off. Weave in the ends. The gaps in the stitch pattern are used as buttonholes to make the straps adjustable.
Finishing the Crochet Dress
1. Weave in the tails
2. Sew on the tiny buttons for the back closure. See Pic 5 below to see the back view of the dress.

5. Back View
3. Place the strap and wooden buttons on the front of the dress. Sew them onto the dress in one go. The buttons in the front are optional and only for embellishment. Refer to Pic 6 below to see how far to place your straps.
4. Sew the wooden buttons directly onto the back of the dress. The gaps in your straps will work as buttonholes making them adjustable.

6. Measurements
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Tammy Perkins
Wednesday 8th of November 2023
Love all these pattered