Crochet Slipper Boots Free Pattern, Classic Boots

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Free Crochet Slipper Boots Pattern, a Timeless Design

 

This crochet slipper boots pattern has been tried and loved by many. I am now offering it for free for my blog readers. 

 

 

Like most slipper crochet patterns, this one is an intermediate level too. If you read and follow the detailed instructions, it shouldn’t be hard even if you don’t have much experience making slippers.

 

The crochet boot is worked using 2 strands of yarn which helps it hold its shape well. This also gives enough cushion to the soles.

 

 

I generally gift all the items I crochet, but I kept these boots for myself and washed them, and wore them throughout the long Wisconsin winter.  They held up so well in the wash, I was very pleased.

 

 

Whether you want to make them for yourself, gift them or sell them, I bet you will enjoy making them.

 

 

 

Crochet Booties for Adults

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $5.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”.

 

Materials

1. Worsted weight yarn of a soft texture. I used Vanna’s choice. You might need 4 skeins as the pattern is worked by holding two strands of yarn together.

2. Hook H ( 5mm) for sizes Small and Medium. Hook I (5.5mm) for sizes Large and Extra Large.

3. Four 1 1/8 inch wooden buttons.

 

 

Size

Small (fits US sizes 5/6), Medium (fits US sizes 7/8), Large( fits US sizes 9/10) Extra Large (fits US sizes 11/12)

Small: Sole 9 inches long and 3 inches wide

Medium: Sole 9 ½ inches long and 3 ¼ inches wide

Large: Sole 10 inches long and a little less than 3 ½ inches wide

Extra Large: Sole 11 inches long and 4 inches wide

 

 

Gauge

Use finished sizes of soles for gauge. Use any size hook to attain the gauge.

Using an H Hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, 13 sc = 4 inches

Using an I Hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, 12 sc = 4 inches

 

 

Yardage

You will need around 600 Yards for sizes Small, Medium, and Large, and around 640 Yards for Extra Large. You will need 4 skeins of 150/160 yards each as the pattern is worked with 2 strands held together.

 

 

Stitch Explanations

1. Hdc2tog: It is a decrease that joins two stitches into one. It is worked as follows:

[Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, and pull up a loop] twice to get 5 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on the hook.

 

2. Dc2tog: It is a decrease that joins two stitches into one. It is worked as follows:

[Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, and pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops]2 times, yarn over, draw through all loops on the hook.

 

3. Sc2tog: It is a decrease that joins two stitches into one. It is worked as follows:

[Insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop] twice to get 3 loops on the hook, yarn over, and pull through all loops on the hook.

 

4. Reverse Single Crochet: Worked just like regular single crochet but you work from left to right and insert your hook into the stitch on the right before pulling up a loop. See pic 1 below.

 

 

 

 

Stitch Abbreviations

The pattern is in standard American terms.

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

sl st: slip stitch

hdc: half double crochet

ch: chain

yo: yarn over

sk: skip

 

Pattern Notes

1. Sizes Small, Medium, and Large are grouped together, and the size Extra Large is given separately.

 

2. Sizes Small, Medium, and Large are grouped together, and size Extra Large is given separately at the bottom. 

 

PATTERN

Sizes Small, Medium, and Large

Notes

1. Use H (5mm) hook for sizes Small and Medium. Use I (5.5mm) Hook for Large size.

 

2. The stitch counts for bigger sizes are given in brackets in the order Small (Medium & Large). Sizes Medium and Large follow the same pattern until you start the Shaft and straps, the only difference being that size Large is worked with a bigger hook.

 

 

SOLES

Tips for sole

1. Count your stitches after every round. You count the stitches you see around the sole after you make the slip stitch at the end of the round and the slip stitch is also counted as a stitch.

2. Sole is worked in the round without turning at each round.

 

With two strands held together Chain 23 (25)

Round 1: 1 sc into the 2nd chain from hook, 1 sc in each chain across till 1 chain is left, 3 sc in last chain, continue to work along the free loops in the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 2 below, 1 sc into each free loop across, sl st to beginning ch 1—————46 (50) st in the round

 

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 (9)st, 1 hdc in next 12 (13) st, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 12 (13)st, 1 sc in next 8 (9) st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to beginning ch 1.—————– 52 (56) st

 

 

Round 3 (for size Small only): Ch 1, 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 12 st, 1 hdc in next 10 st, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 hdc in next 10 st, 1 sc in next 12 st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc, 1 sc, sl st to beginning ch 1.———-59 st

 

 

Round 3 (for sizes Medium and Large only): Ch 1, 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 13 st, 1 hdc in next 6 st, 1 dc in next 5 st, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 5 st, 1 hdc in next 6 st, 1 sc in next 13 st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc, 1 sc, sl st to beginning ch 1.—————-63 st

 

Do not fasten off as you will be continuing to work the rest of the boots with your working yarn. Weave in the beginning tails on the sole now as it gets difficult once the boot gets higher. The finished sole is shown in pic 3 below.

 

 

Side and Toe Top

Notes

1. Move marker up means after you work a stitch into the marked stitch, take the marker out and place it in the new stitch you worked into the marked stitch. To mark a stitch, you just have to pull a piece of contrasting color yarn through it.

 

2. Do not turn at the end of rounds except after the slip stitch round below.

 

3. The sides and toe top are worked in a spiral without sl stitching at the end of rounds to avoid getting a seam.

 

 

Round 1: Ch 1 and Turn (ch 1 counts as 1st sl st for this round), now the wrong side of the sole will be facing up. Work 1 sl st into the next st and each st around, sl st to beginning ch 1. Make your slip stitches loose as you will be working your next round into them. Turn.———————59 (63) sl st

 

 

Note: The next round is worked in to slip stitches of the round above, take care not to insert your hook into the stitches of the sole.

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, place a marker in the sc you just made to show the first stitch of the round, 1 sc in the next slip st, 1 sc in each slip st around till you end in the stitch right before the marked one. Do not turn——————–59 (63 st)

 

 

Round 3: 1 sc in marked st, move marker up, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st just before the marked one. Do not turn.——— 59 (63) st

 

 

Note: To give you a general idea, all the dc stitches in the following rounds will be distributed symmetrically on the toe side.

Round 4: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 18(20) st, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 sc in next 18(20) st, sc2tog, 1sc, 1sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in the stitch before marked one.——– 51 (55) st after 8 decreases

 

 

Round 5: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 21 (23) st, (dc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.———– 47 (51)st after 4 decreases on the toe side

 

 

Round 6: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc, 1 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 15(17 st), (dc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in next 15(17)st, sc2tog, 1 sc in next, 1 sc in the st right before marked one.—————- 41(45)st after 6 decreases, 4 on the toe side and 2 on the ankle side

 

 

Round 7: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 17 (19)st, (dc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.—————37 (41)st

 

 

Round 8: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 15(17)st, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————– 33 (37) st

 

 

For Size Small only

Round 9: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 11 st, (hdc2tog) 3 times, 1 hdc, (hdc2tog)3 times, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————27 st after 6 decreases on the toe side.

 

 

Round 10: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 10 st, hdc2tog, hdc2tog again, 1 hdc, hdc2tog, hdc2tog again, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————23 st after 4 decreases on the toe side.

 

 

For Sizes Medium and Large

Round 9: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 13 st, hdc2tog, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog again, hdc2tog, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————31 st after 6 decreases on the toe side.

 

 

Round 10: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 12 st, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————27 st after 4 decreases on the toe side.

 

Shaft with Straps

Note: Starting from here the stitch counts for bigger sizes are given in brackets in the order Small (Medium, Large).

Round 11: 1 sc in the marked st, move marker up, 1 sc in each st till you reach the st right before the marker, sl st to marked st. Fasten off. —————23 (27, 27)st

 

 

Note: Mark the 4th (6th, 6th) stitch from the center back as shown in pictures 4, 5, and 6 below. Keeping the toe side of the boot toward you, place a marker on the 4th (6th, 6th) st on the right for a right boot and on the left for a left boot. Start making your right boot first. For both the left and right boots, you will work from the marked stitch toward the toe top as shown in pics 5 and 6 below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Round 12: Sl st to the inner loop of marked st, ch 1 (not counted as a st), 1 hdc into the inner loop of same marked st. This will leave a free loop outside your boot. Continue to work 1 hdc in the inner loop of the next 5 sts, now start working in both the loops, 1 hdc in each st till you reach back near the marked st, 1 hdc into each of the 6 free loops left outside the boot, ch 20 (20, 18) for the strap. You chain less for the Large size as your hook is bigger. See Pics 7, 8, and 9 below.-———- 29 (33, 33) st including the 6 st worked into the free loops

 

 

 

 

Note: Weave in any tails now as it would get difficult once the boot is taller.

 

Round 13: Turn, 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, continue to work 1 hdc in each st of the previous round until you spiral all the way in. Turn. ——— 47 (51, 49) hdc

 

 

Round 14: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), 1 hdc in same st as ch 2, 1 hdc in each st across till 3 st left on the strap, ch 2, skip 2 st, 1 hdc in last st, 1 hdc on top of beginning ch 2. Buttonhole made. Turn. —— 48 (52, 50) hdc

You get 1 more st in Round 14 as you worked a st on top of the beginning ch 2.

 

 

Round 15: Ch 1, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in each st across till you spiral all the way in. Turn.

 

 

Round 16: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 28(32, 32) st till you reach the point where the first strap starts as shown in pic 10 below, ch 20 (20, 18) again.

 

 

Round 17: Repeat Round 13

 

 

Round 18: Repeat Round 14

 

 

Round 19: Ch 1, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next 15 (15, 13) st till you reach the point where the straps start, and then work 1 hdc in each st across till you spiral all the way in. Turn. See Pic 11 below.

 

 

 

Round 20: Ch 2, 1 hdc in same st as ch 2, 1 hdc in next 6 st, 2 hdc in next, 1 hdc in next 5(6,6) st, 2 hdc in next, 1 hdc in next 5(6, 6) st, 2 hdc in next, 1 hdc in next 7(9, 9) st, 1 sc in next, sl st to next. Fasten off if you are making the right boot and do not fasten off if you are making the left one. You would end at the point where the straps start as shown in pic 12 below.

 

 

Last Round of Shells

Right Boot: With a single strand of yarn, sl st to the inner spiral part of the boot as seen in pic 13 below and work  *(ch 1, skip 1 st, 6 dc in the next st, ch 1, skip 1 st,  1 sc in next st) * Repeat from * till you get 8 (9, 9) shells and fasten off.

 

 

 

Left boot: Turn. Drop 1 strand of yarn and proceed with a single strand, *(Ch 1, skip 1 st, 6 dc in the next st, ch 1, skip 1 st,  1 sc in next st) * Repeat from * till you spiral all the way in and fasten off.——-8 (9, 9)shells

 

 

Reverse single Crochet Around straps (see stitch explanation on top)

Right Boot: Start from the base of the lower strap and work a reverse single crochet border, going around both the straps, continue till you reach near the shell on top, and fasten off. See Pic 14 below.

 

 

 

Left Boot: Start from near the last shell on top and work your way around both straps, fasten off at the base of the lower strap. See Pic 15 below.

 

 

 

 

Finishing

1. Weave in any tails left.

2. Hold the straps slanting and sew on the buttons corresponding to the button holes.

———————————————–

 

PATTERN – Size Extra Large

SOLES

Tips for sole

1. Count your stitches after every round. You count the stitches you see around the sole after you make the slip stitch at the end of the round and the slip stitch is also counted as a stitch.

2. Sole is worked in the round without turning at each round.

 

With two strands held together Chain 27

Round 1: 1 hdc into the 3rd chain from hook, 1 hdc in each chain across till 1 chain is left, 3 hdc in last chain, continue to work along the free loops in the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 2 below, 1 hdc into each free loop across, sl st to top of beginning ch 2————— 52 st in the round

 

 

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 st, 1 hdc in next 13 st, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 hdc in next 13 st, 1 sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to beginning ch 1.—————– 58 st

 

 

Round 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 10 st, 1 hdc in next 4 st, 1 dc in next 11 st, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 11 st, 1 hdc in next 4st, 1 sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc, 1 sc, sl st to beginning ch 1.—————-65 st

Weave in the tails on the sole now as it gets difficult once the boot gets higher. You can see the finished sole in pic 3 below.

 

 

 

 

Side and Toe Top

Note

1. Move marker up means after you work a stitch into the marked stitch, take the marker out and place it in the new stitch you worked into the marked stitch. To mark a stitch, you just have to pull a piece of contrasting color yarn through it.

 

2. Do not turn at the end of rounds except after the slip stitch round below.

 

3. The sides and toe top are worked in a spiral without sl stitching at the end of rounds to avoid getting a seam.

 

 

Round 1: Ch 1 and Turn (ch 1 counts as 1st sl st for this round), now the wrong side of the sole will be facing up. Work 1 sl st into the next st and each st around, sl st to beginning ch 1. Make your slip stitches loose as you will be working your next round into them. Turn.———————65 sl st

 

 

Note: The next round is worked into slip stitches of the round above, take care not to insert your hook into the stitches of the sole.

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, place a marker in the sc you just made to show the first stitch of the round, 1 sc in the next slip st, 1 sc in each slip st around till you end in the stitch right before the marked one. Do not turn——————–65 st

 

 

Round 3: 1 sc in marked st, move marker up, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st just before the marked one. Do not turn.——— 65 st

 

 

Note: To give you a general idea, all the dc stitches in the following rounds will be distributed symmetrically on the toe side.

 

 

Round 4: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 21 st, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 sc in next 21 st, sc2tog, 1sc, 1sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in the stitch before marked one.——– 57 st after 8 decreases

 

 

Round 5: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 18 st, 1 hdc in next 6 st, (dc2tog) 4 times, 1 hdc in next 6 st, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.———– 53 st after 4 decreases on the toe side

 

 

Round 6: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc, 1 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 14 st, 1 hdc in next 4 st, (dc2tog) 4 times, 1 hdc in next 4 st, 1 sc in next 14 st, sc2tog, 1 sc in next, 1 sc in the st right before marked one.—————- 47 st after 6 decreases, 4 on the side and 2 on the ankle side

 

 

Round 7: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 20 st, (dc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.—————43 st

 

 

Round 8: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 18 st, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————– 39 st

 

 

Round 9: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 14 st, hdc2tog, dc2tog, dc2tog again, 1 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog again, hdc2tog, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————33 st after 6 decreases on the toe side.

 

 

Round 10: 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in the next 13 st, dc2tog, hdc2tog, 1 hdc, hdc2tog, dc2tog, 1 sc in each st till you end in the st right before the marked one.————29 st after 4 decreases on the toe side.

 

Shaft with Straps

Round 11: 1 hdc in the marked st, move marker up, 1 hdc in each st till you reach the st right before the marked one.—————29 st

 

 

Round 12: 1 hdc in the marked st, move the marker up, 1 hdc in each st till you reach the st right before the marked one, 1 sc in the marked st, sl st to next st. Fasten off and take the marker out.—————29 st

 

 

Note: Mark the 6th stitch from the center back as shown in pictures 4, 5 and 6. Keeping the toe side of the boot toward you, place a marker on the 6th st on the right for a right boot and on the left for a left boot. Start making your right boot first. For both the left and right boots, you will work from the marked stitch toward the toe top as shown in pics 5 and 6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Round 13: Sl st to the inner loop of marked st, ch 1 ( not counted as a st), 1 hdc into the inner loop of same marked st. This will leave a free loop outside your boot. Continue to work 1 hdc in the inner loop of the next 5 st, now start working in both the loops, 1 hdc in each st till you reach back near the marked st, 1 hdc into each of the 6 free loops left outside the boot, ch 20 for the strap. See Pics 7, 8, and 9.-———- 35 st including the 6 st worked into the free loops

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note: Weave in any tails now as it would get difficult once the boot is taller.

Round 14: Turn. 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, continue to work 1 hdc on each st of previous round till your spiral all the way in. Turn. ——— 53 hdc

 

 

Round 15: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), 1 hdc in same st as ch 2, 1 hdc in each st across till 3 st left on the strap, ch 2, skip 2 st, 1 hdc in last st, 1 hdc on top of beginning ch 2. Buttonhole made. Turn. —— 54 hdc

You get 1 more st in Round 15 as you worked a st on top of the beginning ch 2.

 

 

Round 16: Ch 1, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in each st across till you spiral all the way in. Turn.

 

 

Round 17: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 34 st till you reach the point where the first strap starts as shown in pic 10 below, ch 20 again.

 

 

 

 

Round 18: Repeat Round 14

 

 

Round 19: Repeat Round 15

 

 

Round 20: Ch 1, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next 15 st till you reach the point where the straps start, and then work 1 hdc in each st across until you spiral all the way in. Turn. See Pic 11 below.

 

 

 

Round 21: Ch 2, 1 hdc in same st as ch 2, *(1 hdc in next 6 st, 2 hdc in next), repeat from * 2 more times, 1 hdc in next 11 st, 1 sc in next, sl st to next. Fasten off if you are making the right boot and do not fasten off if you are making the left one. You would end at the point where the straps start as shown in pic 12 below.

 

 

 

 

Last Round of Shells

Right Boot: With a single strand of yarn, sl st to the inner spiral part of the boot as seen in pic 13 below  and work  *(ch 1, skip 1 st, 6 dc in the next st, ch 1, skip 1 st,  1 sc in next st) * Repeat from * till you get 9 shells and fasten off.

 

 

 

 

Left Boot:  Turn, drop 1 strand of yarn and proceed with a single strand, *(ch 1, skip 1 st, 6 dc in the next st, ch 1, skip 1 st,  1 sc in next st) * Repeat from * till you spiral all the way in and fasten off.——- 9 shells

 

 

Reverse Single Crochet Around Straps ( see stitch explanation on top)

Right Boot: Start from the base of the lower strap and work a reverse single crochet border, going around both the straps, continue till you reach near the shell on top, and fasten off. See Pic 14 below.

 

 

 

 

Left Boot: Start from near the last shell on top and work your way around both straps, fasten off at the base of the lower strap. See Pic 15 below.

 

 

 

 

Finishing

1. Weave in any tails left.

2. Hold the straps slanting and sew on the buttons corresponding to the button holes.

 

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