Easy Crochet Arm Warmer Pattern

This crochet arm warmer pattern is simple yet elegant. The stitch used gives it a knit look.

The arm warmers are worked from the bottom up. The ribbed cuff gives it a nice fit.

I wanted to design these easy wrist warmers in smaller sizes too but I couldn’t find a size chart with all the measurements I need. When I find one, I will be adding more sizes.

These arm warmers are really snug and toasty. You can wear them in your office to keep your arms warm and still work on your phone or the computer.

It takes just around 120 yards of yarn for a pair. I hope you will enjoy making these for yourself or for gifting them to friends and family.

Crochet Arm Warmer Pattern

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $3.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”.

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Materials

1. Medium worsted weight, size 4 yarn

Caron One Pound yarn in Off White and Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn in color Gold were used for the sample mittens.

2. Hook G(4.25mm) for the ribbing and Hook H(5mm) for the rest of the arm warmers

3. A stitch marker. I prefer locking ones so they don’t fall off.

4. A tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Finished Size

4 inches at the widest part and 7 inches tall

Yardage

120 yards for a pair

Stitch Abbreviations

The pattern is written in US terms.

ch: chain

st: stitch

sc: single crochet

hhdc: herringbone half double crochet

sl st: slip stitch

sk: skip

YO: yarn over

Stitch Explanations

Herringbone half double crochet (hhdc): YO, insert your hook into the next st, pull up a loop through the st and the first loop on your hook, 2 loops left on your hook, YO and pull through the remaining 2 loops on your hook.

Herringbone half double crochet 2 together (hhdc2tog): This is a decrease that joins 2 sts into one. YO, insert your hook into the next st, pull up a loop through the st and the first loop on your hook, 2 loops left on your hook, YO, insert your hook into the next st, pull up a loop through the st and the first loop on your hook, YO and pull through all the 3 remaining loops on your hook.

Work in Back loops or Front loops only: See the picture below to learn what it means to work into back loops only or front loops only. When making a regular stitch the hook is inserted under both the loops as seen in the 1st diagram below but inserted only into one of the loops in case you are working into the back or front loops only.

Hooks inserted under front or back loops only

1. Shows how to work in the front or back loops only

Gauge

Using H(5mm) hook, 13 hhdc= 4″

Crochet Pattern

Ribbing

Cuff of the crochet arm warmers made as a long strip

2. 26 Rows completed

Pattern Note

While working the ribbing, the first and the last sc are worked into both loops and the rest of the sts are worked into the back loop only.

With the smaller G hook, ch 13.

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to end, turn.——12 sc

Row 2: 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in the back loop only of the next 10 stitches, 1 sc in the last st, turn——— 12 sc

Repeat Row 2 until you have completed a total of 26 rows in total, do not fasten off.

Joining the Ribbing for Arm Warmers

3. Sl st the first and last rows together

Now fold the ribbing in the middle and slip stitch the 2 shorter ends together inserting your hook through the front loops of the stitches on your last row and the free loops on the very first row to form a circular band.

See Stitch’s explanation for working in front loops only. I got 13 ridges in the band including the ridge formed by slip-stitching the ends together. Do not fasten off.

The palm of the Arm Warmer

Pattern Note

1. The rest of the mittens is worked in the round

2. We will use a stitch marker to keep track of our rounds.

3. Each ridge on the ribbing is made up of 2 sc rows.

4. When working the first round of sc, if you see a hole, unravel the stitch and insert the hook a little deeper.

Work the first round around the ribbing row ends

4. Work a round of 26 single crochet all around the ribbing

Round 1: Switch to the bigger H(5mm) hook, ch 1 (not counted as a st), working over the yarn tail, work a round of 26 sc by working 1 sc into each row end, sl st to the first sc. Do not turn. ——26 sc

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 hhdc in the same st as ch 1, 1 hhdc in each st across to the last st, hhdc2tog across the last st and the base of the beginning ch, do not sl st and do not turn.——–26 sts

Round 3: Directly work a hhdc in the next st, place a marker in this st to indicate the first st of the round, 1 hhdc in each st across to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.——26 sts

Round 4: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in each st across to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.——26 sts

Repeat Round 4 three more times. You will now have a total of 6 hhdc rounds.

Continue for Right Arm Warmer

5. Skipped stitches form thumb hole

Round 8: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in the next 16 sts, ch 4, sk 5 sts, 1 hhdc in remaining 4 sts to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.—–21 sts+ 4 chs

Round 9: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in the next 16 sts, (1 hhdc, hhdc2tog, 1 hhdc)all in the next ch-4 space, 1 hhdc in remaining 4 sts to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.——-24 sts

Round 10: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in each st across to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.——24 sts

Round 11: Repeat Round 10.

Round 12: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in the next 18 sts, hhdc2tog across the next 2 sts, hhdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, sl st in next st, sl st in the marked st, move the marker into the first sl st you made, sl st in each st across to marked sl st and trim your yarn. Pull the yarn tail out and finish with an invisible join to the first sl st. You can see how to work an invisible join here.

Continue for Left Arm Warmer

Round 8: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in the next 3 sts, ch 4, sk 5 sts, 1 hhdc in remaining 17 sts to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.—–21 sts+ 4 chs

Round 9: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in the next 3 sts, (1 hhdc, hhdc2tog,1 hhdc)all in the next ch-4 space, 1 hhdc in remaining 17 sts to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.——-24 sts

Round 10: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in each st across to the marked st, do not sl st and do not turn.——24 sts

Round 11: Repeat Round 10.

Round 12: Directly work a hhdc in the next marked st, move the marker up into the st you just made, 1 hhdc in the next 18 sts, hhdc2tog across the next 2 sts, hhdc in next st, 1 sc in the next st, sl st in next st, sl st in the marked st, move the marker into the first sl st you made, sl st in each st across to marked sl st and trim your yarn. Pull the yarn tail out and finish with an invisible join to the first sl st. You can see how to work an invisible join here.