Toddler Crochet Slippers in 4 sizes
These crochet toddler slippers are a joy to make. The pattern is crafted using two strands held together, enabling a swift completion.
These toddler crochet slippers boast a sturdy design that maintains its shape effectively. Additionally, they provide excellent cushioning for enhanced warmth and comfort.
Wondering how to make slippers non-slip? Consider using Plasti Dip spray or puffy paint to incorporate dots and squiggles onto the soles. Another option is to attach pieces of shelf liner or Jiffy Grip fabric.
Crochet Toddler Slippers
Materials
1. Worsted weight yarn. I used Vanna’s Choice. You might need two skeins as the pattern is worked by holding two strands of yarn together.
2. Hook H (5mm)
3. Four 7/8 inches wooden buttons
Finished Size of Toddler Crochet Slippers
Toddler sizes 5, 6, 7 and 8
Size 5 (fits 12 to 18 months): Sole 5 inches long and 2 ¼ to 2 ½ inches wide
Size 6 (fits 1.5 to 2 years): Sole 5 ¼ inches and 2 ¼ to 2 ½ inches wide
Size 7 (fits 2 to 2.5 years): Sole 5 ½ inches and 2 ½ to 2 ¾ inches wide
Size 8 (fits 2.5 to 3 years): Sole 6 inches and 2 ½ to 2 ¾ inches wide
Stitch Abbreviations
The pattern is in standard American terms.
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
ch: chain
YO: yarn over
sk: skip
Gauge
Use finished sizes of soles for gauge. Use any size hook to attain the gauge.
Using H Hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, 12 hdc X 8 Rows = 4 inches
Stitch explanation
1. Hdc2tog: It is a hdc decrease that joins two stitches into one. It is worked as follows:
[YO, insert your hook into next stitch and pull up a loop] twice to get 5 loops on your hook, YO and pull through all the 5 loops on your hook.
2. Dc2tog: It is a dc decrease that joins two stitches into one. It is worked as follows:
[YO, insert hook into the next stitch, and pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 2 times, YO, draw through all loops on hook.
3. Sc2tog: It is a sc decrease that joins two stitches into one. It is worked as follows:
[Insert hook into the next st and pull up a loop] twice to get 3 loops on your hook, YO, and pull through all the loops on your hook.
4. Work in Back Loops only: When you are asked to work in back loops only, you work inserting your hook through only one of the loops of the stitch leaving one loop free as shown below. In case that leaves large holes in your work, I suggest you insert your hook into the back loops as well as one more loop that is hiding behind the back loop. The best way to do this is to insert your hook vertically down through the back loop and it will get both the loops on your hook.
Size 5 (Size 6)
SOLE PATTERN
Tips for sole
1. Count your stitches after every round.
2. Sole is worked in the round without turning at the end of each round.
3. The stitch count for the bigger size is given in brackets.
4. Crochet over yarn tails wherever possible to minimize weaving in later.
With two strands held together chain 12 (13).
Round 1: 1 sc into the 2nd chain from hook (skipped ch counts as a st), 1 sc in each chain across to last chain, 3 sc in last chain, continue to work along the free loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 1 below, 1 sc into each free loop across, sl st to beginning ch 1—————24 (26)sts in the round

1. Work into the free loops of the foundation chain
Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as a st), 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 9 (10) st, 2 sc in next 3 st, 1 sc in next 9 (10) st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to beginning ch 1.—————30 (32)sts
Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as a st), 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 6 (7) st, 1 hdc in next 5 st, 2 hdc in next 6 st, 1 hdc in next 5 st, 1 sc in next 5 (6) st, 2 sc, 1 sc in same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to beginning chain 1. Do not fasten off. —————39 (41)sts

2. Finished sole
UPPER
Note: To make sl sts loosely pull up the loop on your hook to loosen it a bit before you work your sl st.
Round 1: Ch 1 and turn (ch 1 counts as 1st sl st for this round), now the wrong side of the sole will be facing up. Work 1 sl st into the next st and each st around, sl st to beginning ch 1. Make your slip stitches loose as you will be working your next round into them. Turn.———————39 (41) sl sts
Note: The next round is worked into slip stitches of the round above, take care not to insert your hook into the stitches of the sole.
Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in the next sl st, 1 sc in each sl st around, sl st to the 1st sc. Do not turn——————–39 (41) sts
Notes
1. Move the marker up means, after you work a stitch into a marked stitch, take the marker out and place it in the new stitch you worked into the marked stitch. Following the markers in the pattern will ensure that your work doesn’t get lopsided. To mark a stitch, you just have to pull a piece of contrasting color yarn through it.
2. Do not turn at the end of the rounds for the following rounds.
Mark 22 stitches symmetrically on the toe side. To mark your stitches, fold the shoe flat along the middle line, count back 11 stitches on either side, and place a marker. When you open the fold you will have 22 stitches marked symmetrically. See Pics 3 and 4 below.

3. Fold the sole along the middle line and count back half the number of stitches (11 sts) on both sides to place the markers.

4. Once you open the fold you will have symmetrically marked 22 sts.
Round 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in next st, 1sc in each st until 4 sts are left before the marked st, sc2tog, 1sc, 1sc, 1 hdc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, *(1 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * 2 more times, 1 hdc in next 7 sts ending in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st across, 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to 1st sc.—————-34 (36) sts
You will have 19 sts marked on the toe side now.
Round 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st till marker.
Starting from the next marked st to the 2nd marked st, work only in back loops to leave free loops outside the front part of the shoe. I suggest you insert your hook into the back loops as well as one more loop that is hiding behind the back loop to prevent leaving holes in your work. 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, hdc2tog, *(1 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * 4 more times, 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, now start working in both the loops, 1 sc in each st across, 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to 1st sc.——————28 (30)sts
You will have 13 stitches marked on the toe side now. They will be a little asymmetrical but that is fine.
Round 5: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in next st, 1sc in each st to the marked st, 1 hdc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 hdc in next st, *(skip next st, 1 hdc), repeat from * 4 more times, 1 hdc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in each st across, 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to 1st sc. —————–23 (25)sts
You will now have 8 stitches marked on the toe side very asymmetrically but we can still use them as a guide.
Round 6: Sl st loosely in each st to marked st, sl st into the marked st, sc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, ch 1, sc2tog in marked st and next st, sl st loosely in each st to end of the round, sl st to first sl st of the round (you will know you have hit the first sl st when it will be hard to poke your hook through it). Fasten off.
STRAPS
Round 1: With 1 strand of yarn ch 12, 1 hdc in 4th ch from hook, two of the chs you skipped will form the buttonhole, 1 hdc in next, sl st in next 5 sts, 1 hdc in next ch, (1 hdc, ch 2 ,1 hdc) in last chain. The ch 2 will form the second buttonhole.
Now work along the opposite side of the foundation chain into the free loops as you did for the soles. 1 hdc in the next ch loop, sl st in the next 5 loops, 1 hdc in the next loop, 1 hdc in the last loop, sl st to next ch. Do not turn. See Pic 5 below. ————– 23 sts around if you count the 2 chs for buttonholes as stitches too.

5. Round 1 of strap completed.
Round 2: Ch 1, 4 hdc in chain 2 space for buttonhole, 2 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, sl st only through back loops in next 5 st, 1 sc in next st, 2 hdc in next , 4 hdc into the ch 2 space for buttonhole, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in next st, sl st through back loops in next 5 st, 1 sc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, sl st to 1st hdc. Fasten off. See Pic 6 below.

6. Round 2 of strap completed
Note: The beauty of your shoe depends on the width and breadth of your strap, so customize it to your taste. If you want it to be longer, add 1 or 2 chains and follow the same pattern. If you want it to be longer as well as wider, switch to a bigger hook.
Make one more slipper following the same pattern.
FINISHING
1. Weave in all the ends.
2. Sew the buttons corresponding to the buttonholes on the straps.
SIZE 7 & 8
SOLE PATTERN
Tips for sole
1. Count your stitches after every round.
2. Sole is worked in the round without turning at the end of each round.
3. The stitch count for the bigger size is given in brackets.
4. Crochet over yarn tails wherever possible to minimize weaving in later.
With two strands held together ch 12 (14).
Round 1: 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook (skipped ch counts as a st), 1 sc in each chain across to last chain, 3 sc in last chain, continue to work along the free loops in the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 7 below, 1 sc into each free loop across, sl st to beginning ch 1—————24 (28)sts in round

1. Work into the free loops of the foundation chain
Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as a st), 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5(6)sts, 1 hdc in next 4 (5) sts, 2 hdc in next 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 4 (5)sts, 1 sc in next 5 (6)sts, 2sc in next, 1 sc in same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to beginning ch 1.—————30 (34)sts in the round
Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as a st), 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 (8)sts, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, 1 dc in next, 2 dc in next 6 sts, 1 dc, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, 1 sc in next 5 (7)sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to beginning ch 1. Do not fasten off.————————39 (43)sts in the round

8. Finished sole
UPPER
Round 1: Ch 1 and Turn (ch 1 counts as 1st sl st for this round), now the wrong side of the sole will be facing up. Work 1 sl st in to the next st and each st around, sl st to beginning ch 1. Make your slip stitches loose as you will be working your next round into them. Turn.———————39 (43)sl sts
Note: The next round is worked into slip stitches of the round above, take care not to insert your hook into the sts of the sole.
Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in the next slip st, 1 sc in each slip st around, sl st to the 1st sc. Do not turn——————–39 (43)sts
Notes
1. Move the marker up means, after you work a stitch into a marked stitch, take the marker out and place it in the new stitch you worked into the marked stitch. Following the markers in the pattern will ensure that your work doesn’t get lopsided. To mark a stitch, you just have to pull a piece of contrasting color yarn through it.
2. The following rounds are worked without turning at the end of each round.
Mark 22 stitches symmetrically on the side. To mark your stitches, fold the shoe flat along the middle line, count back 11 stitches on either side, and place a marker. When you open the fold you will have 22 stitches marked symmetrically. See Pic 9 and 10 below.

9. Fold the sole along the middle line and count back half the number of stitches (11 sts) on both sides to place the markers.

10. Once you open the fold you will have symmetrically marked 22 st.
Round 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in next st, 1sc in each st until 4 sts are left before the marked st, sc2tog, 1sc, 1sc, 1 hdc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, *(1 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * 2 more times, 1 hdc in next 7 sts ending in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st across, 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch 1, sl st to 1st sc. —————-34 (38)sts in the round
You will have 19 sts marked on the toe side now.
Round 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to marked st.
Starting from the next marked st to the 2nd marked st, work only in back loops to leave free loops outside the front part of the shoe. I suggest you insert your hook into the back loops as well as one more loop that is hiding behind the back loop to prevent leaving holes in your work.
1 hdc in marked st, move the marker up, *(hdc2tog, 1 hdc), repeat from * 1 more time, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog. *(1 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * 1 more time, 1 hdc in marked st, move the marker up, now start to work in both the loops, 1 sc in each st across, 1 sc in same st as beginning chain 1, sl st to 1st sc.—————————-28 (32)sts in the round
You will now have 13 stitches marked on the toe side. The markers will be a little asymmetrical but that is fine.
Round 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), 1 dc in next 1 (2)sts, 1 sc in each st to the marked st, 1 sc into the marked st, move the marker up, 1 hdc in next st, *(1 hdc in next st, skip next st), repeat from * 3 more times, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in next 5 (6)sts, 1 dc in next 4 (5)sts, 1 dc in same st as beginning ch2, sl st to 1st dc. —————– 24 (28)sts in the round.
You will now have 9 stitches marked on the toe side asymmetrically but we can still use them as a guide.
Round 6: Sl st loosely in each st till marked st, sl st in to the marked st, sc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, ch 1, sc2tog in next st and marked st, sl st loosely in each st to end of the round, sl st to first sl st of the round (you will know you have hit the first sl st when it will be hard to poke your hook through it). Fasten off.
STRAPS
Round 1: With 1 strand of yarn ch 13, 1 hdc in 4th ch from hook, 2 of the chains you skipped will form the buttonhole, 1 hdc in next, sl st in next 6 chs, 1 hdc in next ch, (1 hdc, ch 2 ,1 hdc) in last chain. The ch 2 will form the second buttonhole.
Now work along the opposite side of the foundation chain into the loops as you did for the soles. 1 hdc in the next ch loop, sl st in the next 6 loops, 1 hdc in the next loop, 1 hdc in the last loop, sl st to the next chain. Do not turn. See Pic 11 below. ——————— 25 sts around if you count the 2 chains for the buttonholes as stitches too.

11. Round 1 of strap completed.
Round 2: Ch 1, 4 hdc into the ch-2 space for buttonhole, 2 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, sl st only through back loops in the next 6 sts, 1 sc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, 4 hdc into the ch-2 space for buttonhole, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in next st, sl st through back loops in next 6 sts, 1 sc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, sl st to 1st hdc. Fasten off. See Pic 12 below.

12. Round 2 of strap completed
Note: The beauty of your shoe depends on the width and breadth of your strap, so customize it to your taste. If you want it to be longer, add 1 or 2 chains and follow the same pattern. If you want it to be longer as well as wider, switch to a bigger hook.
Make one more slipper following the same pattern.
FINISHING THE CROCHET SLIPPERS FOR TODDLERS
1. Weave in any tails left to complete your crochet pattern for toddler slippers.
2. Sew on the buttons corresponding to the buttonholes on the strap.
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