This crochet velvet slipper pattern is a basic beginner-level pattern with easy shaping. The slipper is warm, soft, and squishy.
Since most people have trouble seeing stitches in this yarn, the stitches of this pattern are worked into the spaces between stitches. This makes it really easy to work with the yarn as you just have to feel the gaps with your fingers.
This pattern is one of the easiest ways to work a slipper as the sole is not worked separately. You will also find it easy to adjust the length of the slipper.
Crochet Velvet Slippers
Materials
1. Size 5 super bulky yarn. The sample velvet slippers were made using Bernat Velvet yarn in colors Shadow Purple, Burgundy Plum, Vapor Gray, and Quiet Pink.
2. A size J (6 mm) hook.
3. Tapestry needle to weave in the ends
Finished Size
US size 5: 8-1/2″ long
US sizes 6 and 7: 9″ long
US size 8: 9-1/2″ long
US size 9 and 10: 10″ long
US size 11: 10-1/2 inches long
US size 12: 11″ long
Gauge
10 hdc sts=4 inches
Yardage
120 yards of the main color for sizes 5 to 8 and 150 yards for the bigger sizes.
Stitch Abbreviations
ch: chain
st: stitch
hdc: half double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
YO: yarn over
Stitch Explanations
hc2tog: YO, insert your hook into the space indicated and pull up a loop, YO again, insert your hook into the same space and pull up another loop, YO and pull through all the 5 loops on your hook to complete a hdc2tog.
sc2tog: It is a decrease that joins 2 sts into one. To work a sc2tog, insert your hook into the next st or space specified and pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop, YO and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook.
fphdc (front post half double crochet) and bphdc (back post half double crochet): fphdc and bphdc are worked in the same way as a regular hdc except for the way you insert your hook. You can watch a video here: fphdc and bphdc video
More Crochet Slippers
Free Crochet Slipper Patterns for Adults from a Rectangle
Men’s crochet slipper socks pattern
Crochet Velvet Slipper Pattern
Pattern Notes
1. The velvet slipper is designed using a wide hdc stitch which is simply hdc worked into the gaps between the stitches. This makes it easy to work with velvet yarn because you just have to feel the gap with your fingers and insert your hook rather than looking for sts.
2. Every time the pattern mentions ‘space’ it is referring to the space between sts unless otherwise specified.
3. The pattern is written for the gray slipper with the pink edging.
Pattern- Size 5 and 6
Note: Stitch count variations or Row number variations if any are given in the order Size 5 (Size 6). If there is only 1 number, then it applies to both sizes.
Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 4 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 8 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——8 hdc
Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 7 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-17 hdc
Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts
Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts

1. Toe side completed in the round
Repeat Round 4 five more times for size 5 and six more times for size 6. Now you will have completed a total of 9 (10) rounds and the slipper should measure 4 (4. 5) inches long and 3.75 inches wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again.
Side and Back

2. Work back and forth in rows once the toe side is complete.

3. Back side completed
Row 10 (Row 11): Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 12 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–13 hdc
Row 11 (Row 12): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 11 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-13 hdc
Repeat the above row five more times or until the slipper measures 7 (7-1/2)” long from the toe side.
Row 17 (Row 18): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 3 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——14 sts
Row 18 (Row 19): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——15 sts
Row 19 (Row 20): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 13 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-15 sts
Row 20 (Row 21): Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 5 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——16 sts
Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off.

4. Sl st the back shut inside the slipper.
Border Around the Slipper
You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.

5. Work 2 decreases at the points shown.
Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–30 sts

6. Add 4 decreases as shown.
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-26 sts
Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-26 hdc
Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-26 sts
Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all the tails.
Pattern- Size 7 and 8
Note: Stitch count variations or Row number variations if any are given in the order Size 7 (Size 8). If there is only 1 number, then it applies to both sizes.
Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 4 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 8 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——8 hdc
Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 7 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-17 hdc
Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts
Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts
Repeat Round 4 six more times for size 7 and seven more times for size 8. Now you will have completed a total of 10 (11) rounds and the slipper should measure 4.5 (5) inches long and 3.75 inches wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again. See pic 1 above for the completed toe side.
Side and Back (see pics 2 and 3)
Row 11 (Row 12): Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 12 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–13 hdc
Row 12 (Row 13): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 11 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-13 hdc
Repeat the above row five more times or until the slipper measures 7-1/2 (8)” long from the toe side.
Row 18 (Row 19): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 3 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——14 sts
Row 19 (Row 20): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——15 sts
Row 20 (Row 21): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 13 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-15 sts
Row 21 (Row 22): Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 5 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——16 sts
Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off. See pic 4.
Border Around the Slipper
You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.
Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown in pic 5 above, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–30 sts
Note: See pic 6 to see where the decreases are positioned for the next round.
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-26 sts
Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-26 hdc
Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-26 sts
Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all the tails.
Pattern- Size 9 and 10
Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 5 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 9 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——9 hdc
Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 8 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-19 hdc
Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 18 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-19 sts
Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 18 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-19 sts
Repeat Round 4 seven more times. Now you will have completed a total of 11 rounds and the slipper should measure 5 inches long and 4″ wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again. See pic 1 for the completed toe side.
Side and Back (see pics 2 and 3)
Row 12: Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 14 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–15 hdc
Row 13: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 13 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-15 hdc
Repeat the above row 6 more times or until the slipper measures 8-1/2″ long from the toe side.
Row 20: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——16 sts
Row 21: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——17 sts
Row 22: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 15 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-17 sts
Row 23: Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 5 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 6 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——18 sts
Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off. See pic 4.
Border Around the Slipper
You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.
Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown in pic 5, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–32 sts
Note: See pic 6 to see where the decreases are positioned for the next round.
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-28 sts
Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-28 hdc
Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-28 sts
Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all the tails.
Pattern- Size 11 and 12
Note: Stitch count variations or Row number variations if any are given in the order Size 11 (Size 12). If there is only 1 number, then it applies to both sizes.
Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 5 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 10 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——10 hdc
Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 9 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-21 hdc
Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 20 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-21 sts
Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 20 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-21 sts
Repeat Round 4 eight more times. Now you will have completed a total of 12 rounds and the slipper should measure 5-1/2 inches long and 4-1/4″ wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again. See pic 1 for the completed toe side.
Side and Back (see pics 2 and 3)
Row 12: Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–17 hdc
Row 13: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 15 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-17 hdc
Repeat the above row 6(7) more times or until the slipper measures 9 (9-1/2)” long from the toe side.
Row 20: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——18 sts
Row 21: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——19 sts
Row 22: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 17 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-19 sts
Row 23: Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 6 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——20 sts
Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off. See pic 4.
Border Around the Slipper
You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.
Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown in pic 5, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–32 (34)sts
Note: See pic 6 to see where the decreases are positioned for the next round.
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-28 (30)sts
Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-28 (30)hdc
Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-28 (30)sts
Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all the tails.