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Velvet Crochet Slippers

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Finished Crochet Velvet Slipper Pattern

 

This crochet velvet slipper pattern is a basic beginner-level pattern with easy shaping. The slipper is warm, soft, and squishy.

 

 

Crochet Velvet Slipper in gray and pink color

 

Crochet Slippers with Velvet Yarn

 

Since most people have trouble seeing stitches in this yarn, the stitches of this pattern are worked into the spaces between stitches. This makes it really easy to work with the yarn as you just have to feel the gaps with your fingers.

 

Velvet yarn slippers

 

This pattern is one of the easiest ways to work a slipper as the sole is not worked separately. You will also find it easy to adjust the length of the slipper. 

 

 

3 finished crochet slippers with velvet

 

Crochet Velvet Slippers

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $3.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”.

 

Pin it for later here.

 

 

Materials

1. Size 5 super bulky yarn. The sample velvet slippers were made using Bernat Velvet yarn in colors Shadow Purple, Burgundy Plum, Vapor Gray, and Quiet Pink.

2. A size J (6 mm) hook.

3. Tapestry needle to weave in the ends

 

 

Finished Size

US size 5: 8-1/2″ long

US sizes 6 and 7: 9″ long

US size 8: 9-1/2″ long

US size 9 and 10: 10″ long

US size 11: 10-1/2 inches long

US size 12: 11″ long

 

Gauge

10 hdc sts=4 inches

 

 

Yardage

120 yards of the main color for sizes 5 to 8 and 150 yards for the bigger sizes.

 

 

Stitch Abbreviations

ch: chain

st: stitch

hdc: half double crochet

sl st: slip stitch

YO: yarn over

 

 

Stitch Explanations

hc2tog: YO, insert your hook into the space indicated and pull up a loop, YO again, insert your hook into the same space and pull up another loop, YO and pull through all the 5 loops on your hook to complete a hdc2tog. 

 

sc2tog: It is a decrease that joins 2 sts into one. To work a sc2tog, insert your hook into the next st or space specified and pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop, YO and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook.

 

fphdc (front post half double crochet) and bphdc (back post half double crochet): fphdc and bphdc are worked in the same way as a regular hdc except for the way you insert your hook. You can watch a video here: fphdc and bphdc video

 

More Crochet Slippers

Free Crochet Slipper Patterns for Adults from a Rectangle

Men’s crochet slipper socks pattern

 

Crochet Velvet Slipper Pattern

 

Pattern Notes

1. The velvet slipper is designed using a wide hdc stitch which is simply hdc worked into the gaps between the stitches. This makes it easy to work with velvet yarn because you just have to feel the gap with your fingers and insert your hook rather than looking for sts. 

 

2. Every time the pattern mentions ‘space’ it is referring to the space between sts unless otherwise specified.

 

3. The pattern is written for the gray slipper with the pink edging.

 

 

Pattern- Size 5 and 6

Note: Stitch count variations or Row number variations if any are given in the order Size 5 (Size 6). If there is only 1 number, then it applies to both sizes. 

 

Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 4 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 8 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——8 hdc

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 7 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-17 hdc

 

 

Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts

 

 

Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts

 

Toe top completed in the round

1. Toe side completed in the round

 

 

Repeat Round 4 five more times for size 5 and six more times for size 6. Now you will have completed a total of 9 (10) rounds and the slipper should measure 4 (4. 5) inches long and 3.75 inches wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again.

 

 

Side and Back

 

 

work back and forth in rows

2. Work back and forth in rows once the toe side is complete.

 

Back side completed

3. Back side completed

 

 

Row 10 (Row 11): Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 12 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–13 hdc

 

 

Row 11 (Row 12): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 11 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-13 hdc

Repeat the above row five more times or until the slipper measures 7 (7-1/2)” long from the toe side.

Row 17 (Row 18): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 3 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——14 sts

Row 18 (Row 19): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——15 sts

 

 

Row 19 (Row 20): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 13 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-15 sts

 

 

Row 20 (Row 21): Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 5 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——16 sts

 

 

Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off.

 

Sl stitch the back shut on the wrong side of the slipper

4. Sl st the back shut inside the slipper.

 

 

Border Around the Slipper

You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.

 

work 2 decreases at toe side corners

5. Work 2 decreases at the points shown.

 

 

Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–30 sts

 

work 2 decreases at toe side corners

6. Add 4 decreases as shown.

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-26 sts

 

 

Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-26 hdc

 

 

Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-26 sts

 

 

Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.

 

 

Finishing

Weave in all the tails. 

 

 

Pattern- Size 7 and 8

Note: Stitch count variations or Row number variations if any are given in the order Size 7 (Size 8). If there is only 1 number, then it applies to both sizes. 

 

 

Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 4 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 8 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——8 hdc

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 7 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-17 hdc

 

 

Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts

 

 

Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-17 sts

 

 

Repeat Round 4 six more times for size 7 and seven more times for size 8. Now you will have completed a total of 10 (11) rounds and the slipper should measure 4.5 (5) inches long and 3.75 inches wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again. See pic 1 above for the completed toe side. 

 

 

Side and Back (see pics 2 and 3)

Row 11 (Row 12): Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 12 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–13 hdc

 

 

Row 12 (Row 13): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 11 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-13 hdc

 

 

Repeat the above row five more times or until the slipper measures 7-1/2 (8)” long from the toe side.

 

 

Row 18 (Row 19): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 3 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——14 sts

 

 

Row 19 (Row 20): Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——15 sts

 

 

Row 20 (Row 21): 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 13 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-15 sts

 

 

Row 21 (Row 22): Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 5 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——16 sts

 

Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off. See pic 4.

 

 

Border Around the Slipper

You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.

 

 

Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown in pic 5 above, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–30 sts

 

 

Note: See pic 6 to see where the decreases are positioned for the next round. 

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-26 sts

 

 

Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-26 hdc

 

 

Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-26 sts

 

Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.

 

Finishing

Weave in all the tails. 

 

Pattern- Size 9 and 10

Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 5 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 9 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——9 hdc

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 8 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-19 hdc

 

 

Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 18 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-19 sts

 

 

Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 18 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-19 sts

 

 

Repeat Round 4 seven more times. Now you will have completed a total of 11 rounds and the slipper should measure 5 inches long and 4″ wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again. See pic 1 for the completed toe side.

 

 

Side and Back (see pics 2 and 3)

Row 12: Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 14 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–15 hdc

 

 

Row 13: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 13 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-15 hdc

 

 

Repeat the above row 6 more times or until the slipper measures 8-1/2″ long from the toe side.

 

 

Row 20: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 4 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——16 sts

 

 

Row 21: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——17 sts

 

 

Row 22: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 15 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-17 sts

 

 

Row 23: Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 5 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 6 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——18 sts

 

Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off. See pic 4. 

 

 

Border Around the Slipper

You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.

 

 

Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown in pic 5, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–32 sts

 

 

Note: See pic 6 to see where the decreases are positioned for the next round. 

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-28 sts

 

Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-28 hdc

 

 

Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-28 sts

 

 

Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.

 

Finishing

Weave in all the tails. 

 

 

Pattern- Size 11 and 12

Note: Stitch count variations or Row number variations if any are given in the order Size 11 (Size 12). If there is only 1 number, then it applies to both sizes. 

 

 

Round 1: With gray color yarn, ch 5 and sl st to first ch to form a ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working over the yarn tail, 10 hdc into the space in the middle of the ring, tug the yarn tail to close any gap and sl st to first hdc, do not turn. ——10 hdc

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, place a marker in this ch-1, 2 hdc in adjacent space right after ch 1, 2 hdc in each of the next 9 spaces between sts, 1 hdc in the last space between the last st and beginning ch-1, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.——-21 hdc

 

 

Round 3: Directly work a hdc2tog in the space under the marked ch, move the marker into this hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 20 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-21 sts

 

 

Round 4: 1 hdc in the space under the next marked st, move the marker up into this st, 1 hdc in next 20 spaces until you work a hdc in the last space right before marked st, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.—-21 sts

 

 

Repeat Round 4 eight more times. Now you will have completed a total of 12 rounds and the slipper should measure 5-1/2 inches long and 4-1/4″ wide. If not, switch to a different size hook and try again. See pic 1 for the completed toe side. 

 

 

Side and Back (see pics 2 and 3)

Row 12: Sl st to the marked space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the same space, 1 hdc in next 16 spaces, leave the remaining sts unworked, ch 1 and turn.—–17 hdc

 

 

Row 13: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in the next 15 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——-17 hdc

 

 

Repeat the above row 6(7) more times or until the slipper measures 9 (9-1/2)” long from the toe side.

 

 

Row 20: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——18 sts

 

 

Row 21: Ch 1, 1 hdc in adjacent space, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, hdc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——19 sts

 

 

Row 22: 1 hdc in the adjacent space, 1 hdc in next 17 spaces, 1 hdc in the next space between hdc and beginning ch-1, turn.——-19 sts

 

 

Row 23: Ch 1, 1 sc in adjacent space, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next 6 spaces, sc2tog across next 2 spaces, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, 2 sc in next space, 1 sc in the last space between hdc and beginning ch-1, ch 1 and turn.——20 sts

 

Turn the back side inside out and sl st the back shut. Fasten off. See pic 4.

 

Border Around the Slipper

You will now work 2 rounds around the opening of the slipper with a few decreases thrown in. This will make your slippers snug and keep them from falling off your feet. You will be working across row ends for the most part and will have to distribute your sc as evenly as possible.

 

 

Round 1: Sl st to the back seam, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the slipper with 2 decreases (sc2tog), 1 at each of the corners of the toe top as shown in pic 5, sl st to the 1st sc, do not turn.——–32 (34)sts

 

Note: See pic 6 to see where the decreases are positioned for the next round. 

 

 

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, place a marker in this st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st until you have 1 st before the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach the opposite side of the toe top, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across until 4 sts left, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, sl st to marked st, fasten off.——-28 (30)sts

 

 

Round 3: Join the accent color at the point of fastening off with a sl st, ch 1( does not count as a st), 1 hdc in first st and each st around, sl st to first st, do not turn.——-28 (30)hdc

 

 

Round 4: Ch 2( counts as a bphdc), fphdc in next st, *(bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2.—-28 (30)sts

 

 

Last Round: Ch 1( counts as a st), fpsc in next st, *(bpsc in next st, fpsc in next st), repeat from * to end, sl st to beginning ch-1, fasten off.

 

Finishing

Weave in all the tails. 

 

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