Free Crochet Boots, Arctic Boots for Women

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Free Crochet Slipper Boots- makes the squishiest pair!

Free Crochet Boots

 

Looking for a warm pair of easy crochet boots? You can now make one using my free pattern.

 

Free Crochet Slipper Boots

 

After I designed my 1.5 hour crochet slippers with Bernat Blanket yarn,  it suddenly dawned on me that I could build up on it to design a cool free crochet boots pattern. 

 

I imagined writing the pattern was going to be easy as I had the base of the shoe already done, but once I started writing the pattern it was a different story.

 

Easy Crochet Slipper Boots

 

Unlike the 1.5 hour slipper, this free crochet slipper boots pattern had to be written separately for the left and the right boot. I love how these turned out and it has been well worth the effort. 

 

Free Crochet Boots Pattern for Adults

 

The history of boots is fascinating. According to lovetoknow.com, boots is believed to have developed from one of the earliest forms of footwear-a two-piece unit covering the foot and lower leg.

 

These free crochet boots will be one of the comfiest and squishiest you will ever wear. I hope you love it as much as I do. 

 

Bernat Baby Blanket Yarn Crochet Boots

 

Free Crochet Boots Pattern

Materials

1. Size 6 Super Bulky Chenille yarn. Bernat Blanket yarn in colors Merlot and Gray Blue, and Bernat Baby Blanket yarn in color Baby Sand was used for the samples.

2. Red Heart Hygge Fur in color Cotton Tail for the edging

3. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn in color Taupe for the button loop. You can use any DK weight or thin worsted weight cotton yarn in its place. 

4. An N/P(10mm) hook for the main slipper, a K(6.5mm) hook for the fur trim, and an F(3.75mm) hook for the button loop. 

5. A big eye tapestry needle to weave in the ends

6. A locking stitch marker or a safety pin.

7. Four 1-1/4 inch wooden buttons.

 

Finished Sizes for Easy Crochet Slipper Boots

Note: Size refers to US shoe sizes. The slipper is designed to have 1/4- 1/2 inch wiggle room.

 

Size Foot Length Boots Length
5 8.5″ 9″
6 9″ 9.5″
7 9.25″ 9.5″
8 9.5″ 10″
9 10″ 10.5″
10 10.25″ 10.5″
11 10.75″ 11″
12 11″ 11.5″

 

Yardage

1. Each pair of this Baby Blanket Yarn Crochet Boots takes around 200 yards of the super bulky yarn. 

2. Small amounts of  Red Heart Hygge fur yarn for the trim.

3. Small amounts of  Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn for the button loop. 

 

Stitch Abbreviations

The pattern is written in US terms.

ch– chain

st– stitch

sc– single crochet

sl st– slip stitch

YO– yarn over

 

You might also like these slipper patterns:

Shell Slipper Crochet Pattern

Easy 1.5 Hour Chunky Crochet slipper

Crochet Boots Pattern for Women

 

Gauge

7 sc sts and 7 Rows = 4 inches

 

Stitch Explanations

1. sc2tog: It is a decrease that joins 2 sts into one.

To work a sc2tog, insert your hook into the next st or space specified and pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop, YO and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook.

 

2. sc3tog: It is a decrease that joins 3 sts into one.

To work a sc3tog, *(insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop), repeat from * 2 more times,  YO and pull through all the 4 loops on your hook.

 

Free Crochet Slipper Boots Pattern

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $3.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”.

 

Pattern Notes

1. Sizes 5 to 9 are grouped together and sizes 10 to 12 are grouped together. The throat part is written for all the sizes. 

 

Sizes 5 to 9

With the bigger 10mm hook, ch 4.

 

Note: When you work 2 sc into the free loops of the foundation chain, work your first sc inserting your hook under one loop and the second one inserting hook under the junction of the current loop and next loop where they cross. This will make any hole left smaller.

 

 

1. work into the free loops of the foundation chain

 

First Round of free crochet boots

2. Round 1 completed

 

Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, pivot to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 1 above, 2 sc in the first free loop of the foundation ch, 2 sc in the next free loop of the foundation ch, sl st to first sc, do not turn. ———-11 sc

 

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), *(1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st), repeat from * 4 more times, 1 sc in next st, do not sl st and do not turn.——16 sc

 

Notes

1. We will now start working in a spiral without sl stitching at the end of rounds.

2. We will place a marker in the first st of every round to keep track of the rounds. Every time you work a st into the marked st, move the marker up into the st you just worked to indicate the beginning of the new round.

 

Round 3: Sk the next ch(it looks like a st but is actually the beginning ch 1), 1 sc into the next sc, place a marker in this sc. 1 sc in next 15 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-16 sc

 

Round 4: 1 sc in the marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in next 15 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-16 sc

 

Notes

1. Before you proceed any further, use your beginning tail to close any gaps at the toe side and weave in the rest of the tail.

2. At the end of each round, make sure to write down the number of rounds you have completed. It can be hard to count your rounds when you are working in a spiral.

 

Repeat Round 4 until you have completed 9 Rounds for size 5, 10 Rounds for sizes 6 and 7, 11 Rounds for size 8, and 12 Rounds for size 9.

 

Heel Side- Sizes 5 to 9

 

3. All Rows of the heel completed

 

Row 1: Sl st to next marked st. You can now take off the marker. We won’t be using it anymore. Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 10 sts, turn——11 sc

 

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 10 sts, turn. —–11 sc

 

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 7 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–13 sc

 

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 12 sts, turn. —–13 sc

 

Row 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 3 sts, sc3tog across next 3 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–13 sc

 

Row 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 12 sts, turn. Do not fasten off. —–13 sc

 

Seaming- Sizes 5 to 9

 

Seaming the heel side of the free crochet boots pattern for adults

4. Work a sl st seam on the inside of the slipper

 

5. End with a sl st in the corner

 

6. Back of the heel after slip stitching

 

Now fold your last row in half and work a sl st seam on the inside of your slipper as shown in pic 4 above. Insert your hook only through the front loop of the front layer and the back loop of the back layer when you slip stitch. This will prevent bulk from forming at your seam. End with a sl st in the corner as shown in pic 5 above.  Fasten off. Make one more shoe following the same pattern. 

 

Leveling Round-Sizes 5 to 9

Notes

1. First we will work a leveling round around the opening. We will start this round at different points for the left and the right boot. 

 

2. After the leveling round, the Throat pattern is the same for both the right and left boot. 

 

3. Before proceeding with the boots, weave in the tail inside the shoe as it will get harder once the boots get taller. 

 

LEFT BOOT

Starting the left Free Crochet Slipper Boots

7. For the left boot, work in the direction as shown.

 

8. Work sc decreases at points shown

 

 

Leveling Round for Left Boot(sizes 5 to 9): Sl st to the top of the 3rd row from behind as shown in pic 7( you can count rows from the free loops behind), 1 sc in the same spot, 1 sc on top of next row, 1 sc in the groove between the 3rd and the 4th row, work 18(19 for size 9) more sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 8 above, DO NOT sl st and DO NOT turn.————-21(22 for size 9) sc

Jump to Throat Pattern below.

 

RIGHT BOOT

 

Starting the right Baby Blanket Yarn Crochet Boots

9. For the right boot, sl st at the point shown and work in the direction shown.

 

Note: The last round for the right boot is similar to the last round for the left boot but you will work inserting your hook from inside the shoe. This will ensure that the boot overlaps from behind just like the left one. 

 

Leveling Round for Right Boot (for sizes 5 to 9): Sl st to the top of the 3rd row from inside as shown in pic 9( count rows from the free loops behind), 1 sc in the same spot, 1 sc on top of next row, 1 sc in the groove between the 3rd and the 4th row, work 18(19 for size 9) more sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 8 above, DO NOT sl st and DO NOT turn.————-21(22 for size 9) sc

Proceed to Throat Pattern below.

 

THROAT (Left and Right Boots)-Sizes 5 to 9

Notes

1. The inner loop will be the back loop for your left boot and the front loop for your right boot. The idea is to leave a line of free loops running along the outside of the boots after Row 1. 

2. Work the first 8 rounds of your Throat tight as you want the base to be narrow for a good fit. 

 

10. Throat Row 1 of Left Boot completed

 

11. Throat Row 1 of Right Boot completed

 

Throat Row 1: 1 sc in the inner loop of the next st( first sc of leveling round), place a marker in this st, 1 sc in the inner loop of each st across until you end in the st right before the marked st, 1 sc in the free loop in front of the marked st, 1 sc in the next 2 free loops. You will have a small overlap as shown in pic 10 and 11 above.——-24(25 for size 9) sc

 

Note: You can count your Throat Rows from the free loop line that is running at the front of the shoe. 

 

Throat Row 2: Ch 1( does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in first st and each st across to end. You will end in the marked st, turn.—–24(25 for size 9) sc

 

Throat Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.—–24(25 for size 9) sc

 

Repeat Row 3 until you have a total of 8 Rows from the free loop line.

 

Throat Row 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each st across to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, turn.———-26(27 for size 9) sc

 

Throat Row 10: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.—–26(27 for size 9) sc

 

Throat Row 11: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.———28(29 for size 9) sc

 

Throat Row 12: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.—–28(29 for size 9) sc

 

Throat Row 13: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st across to last 3 sts, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st, turn.———-28(29 for size 9) sc

 

Throat Row 14: Without making a turning chain, pull up the loop on you hook to loosen it, directly work a sc in next st, 1 sc in each st across to last 4 sts, sc2tog across next 2 sts, sl st loosely into the last 2 sts. Fasten off.

 

12. Completed Throat

 

Adding the Fur Trim-Sizes 5 to 9

Tips for Working with Fur Yarn

1. It can be hard to see your stitches with the fur yarn, so use your fingers to feel the stitches and then insert your hook. 

 

2. You should keep your gauge loose while working with any fur yarn. This will ensure you can unravel your stitches if needed. If you tend to crochet tight with the suggested hook, go up a hook size or two.

 

3. Switch to a K(6.5mm)hook for the fur trim.

 

13. For the left boot, Sl st inside the boots and start working the first row as shown

 

Left Boot Fur Trim-Sizes 5 to 9 

Row 1: Sl st to the inner edge of the flap as shown and work along the edge. Insert your hook under just 1 loop along the edge and work 2sc across 1st row end, *(3 sc across next row end, 2 sc across next row end), repeat from * until you reach the top curved corner, work 6 sc along the curve.

 

Continue to work along the top of the boots where you have actual stitches to work into, (2sc in front loop of next st, 3 sc in front loop of next st), repeat from * until you reach the next curved corner, work 6 sc along the curve.

 

Continue to work down along the edge of the flap going under just 1 loop on the edge *(2 sc across next row end, 3 sc across next row end), repeat all the way to the bottom of the flap.

 

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the next curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across until you have about an inch left of the previous row. You don’t have to work to the very edge as it will be hard and it won’t show outside anyway.

 

Last Row: Work this row pretty tight. Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the next curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across to last st, sl st to last st and fasten off. 

 

Right Boot Fur Trim-Sizes 5 to 9

 

14. For the Right boot, Sl st outside the boots and start working the first row as shown

 

Row 1: Sl st to the outer edge of the flap as shown and work along the edge. Insert your hook under just 1 loop along the edge and work 2sc across 1st row end, *(3 sc across next row end, 2 sc across next row end), repeat from * until you reach the top curved corner, work 6 sc along the curve.

 

Continue to work along the top of the boots where you have actual stitches to work into, (2sc in front loop of next st, 3 sc in front loop of next st), repeat from * until you reach the next curved corner, work 6 sc along the curve.

 

Continue to work down along the edge of the flap going under just 1 loop on the edge *(2 sc across next row end, 3 sc across next row end), repeat all the way to the bottom of the flap.

 

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the next curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the bottom of the flap.

 

Row 3: Do not ch 1, sl st to the first st, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the next curved corner, work 2 sc into each of the 3 sts around the corner, 1 sc in each st across until you have about an inch left of the previous row and fasten off. 

 

Button and Button Loops- Sizes 5 to 9

Sew on the wooden buttons between the 5th and 6th Throat Rows and between the 11 and 12th Throat Rows from the bottom. You can start counting the rows from the line of free loops.

 

With F(3.75mm) hook and the cotton yarn, ch 35 and fasten off. Make 3 more button loops like this.

 

Now loop the button loop around the buttons and estimate where they should be placed, pull the ends through either end of the corresponding row, and make a couple of knots inside, . Work on the bottom button loop first. 

Repeat with the other boot. 

———————-End of Sizes 5 to 9—————–

 

Sizes 10, 11 & 12

With the bigger 10mm hook, ch 4.

 

Note: When you work 2 sc into the free loops of the foundation chain, work your first sc inserting your hook under one loop and the second one inserting hook under the junction of the current loop and next loop where they cross. When working the third sc into the last loop, dig your hook a little deeper. This will close any hole.

 

15. work into the free loops of the foundation chain

 

16. Round 1 completed

 

Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, pivot to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain as shown in pic 15 above, 2 sc in the first free loop of the foundation ch, 3 sc in the next free loop, sl st to first sc, do not turn. ———-12 sc

 

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), *(1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st), repeat from * 5 more times, do not sl st and do not turn.——18 sc

 

Notes

1. We will now start working in a spiral without sl stitching at the end of rounds.

2. We will place a marker in the first st of every round to keep track of the rounds. Every time you work a st into the marked st, move the marker up into the st you just worked to indicate the beginning of the new round.

 

Round 3: Sk the next ch(it looks like a st but is actually the beginning ch 1), 1 sc into the next sc, place a marker in this sc. 1 sc in next 17 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-18 sc

 

Round 4: 1 sc in the marked st, move the marker up, 1 sc in next 17 sts until you work a sc in the st right before the marked one, do not sl st and do not turn.——-18 sc

 

Notes

1. Before you proceed any further, use your beginning tail to close any gaps at the toe side and weave in the rest of the tail.

2. At the end of each round, make sure to write down the number of rounds you have completed. It can be hard to count your rounds when you are working in a spiral.

 

Repeat Round 4 until you have completed 12 Rounds for sizes 10 and 11, and 13 Rounds for size 12.

 

Heel Side- Sizes 10 to 12

 

17. All Rows of the heel completed

 

Row 1: Sl st to next marked st. You can now take off the marker. We won’t be using it anymore. Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 11 sts, turn——12 sc

 

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 11 sts, turn. —–12 sc

 

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 8 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–14 sc

 

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 13 sts, turn. —–14 sc

 

Repeat Row 5 one more time if you are making size 11 or 12.

 

Row 6(Row 7 for sizes 11 and 12): Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in 3 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in last st, turn.——–14 sc

 

Row 7 (Row 8 for sizes 11 & 12): Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 13 sts, turn. Do not fasten off. —–14 sc

 

Seaming the Heel

 

18. Work a sl st seam on the inside of the slipper

 

19. End with a sl st in the corner

 

20. Back of the heel after slip stitching

 

Now fold your last row in half and work a sl st seam on the inside of your slipper as shown in pic 18. Insert your hook only through the front loop of the front layer and the back loop of the back layer when you slip stitch. This will prevent bulk from forming at your seam. End with a sl st in the corner as shown in pic 19.  Fasten off. Make one more shoe following the same pattern. 

 

Leveling Round- Sizes 10 to 12 

Notes

1. First we will work a leveling round around the opening and we will start this round at different points for the left and the right boot. 

 

2. After the leveling round, the Throat pattern is the same for both the right and left boot. 

 

3. Before proceeding with the boots, weave in the tail inside the shoe as it will get harder once the boots get taller. 

 

LEFT BOOT

21. For the left boot, work in the direction as shown.

 

22. Work sc decreases at points shown

 

 

Leveling Round (Size 10 only): Sl st to the top of the 3rd row from behind as shown in pic 21 above( count rows from the free loops behind), 1 sc in the same spot, 1 sc on top of next row, 1 sc in the groove between the 3rd and the 4th row, work 19 more sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 22 above, DO NOT sl st and DO NOT turn.————-22 sc

 

Leveling Round(Sizes 11 & 12): Sl st to the top of the 4th row from behind as shown in pic 21 above( count rows from the free loops behind), 1 sc in the same spot, 1 sc on top of next row, 1 sc in the groove between the 4th and the 5th row, work 20 more sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 22 above, DO NOT sl st and DO NOT turn.————-23 sc

 

RIGHT BOOT

23. For the right boot, sl st at the point shown and work in the direction shown.

 

Note: The leveling round for the right boot is similar to the one for the left boot but you will work inserting your hook from inside the shoe. This will ensure that the boot overlaps from behind just like the left one. 

 

Leveling Round (for size 10): Sl st to the top of the 3rd row from inside as shown in pic 23 above( count rows from the free loops behind), 1 sc in the same spot, 1 sc on top of next row, 1 sc in the groove between the 3rd and the 4th row, work 19 more sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 22 above, DO NOT sl st and DO NOT turn.——– 22 sc

 

Leveling Round (for size 11 & 12): Sl st to the top of the 4th row from inside as shown in pic 23( count rows from the free loops behind), 1 sc in the same spot, 1 sc on top of next row, 1 sc in the groove between the 4th and the 5th row, work 21 more sc sts around the opening with sc2tog at the junction between the heel and the toe side as shown in pic 22 above, DO NOT sl st and do not turn.————-23 sc

 

 

THROAT (Left and Right Boots)-Sizes 10 to 12

Notes

1. The inner loop will be the back loop for your left boot and the front loop for your right boot. The idea is to leave a line of free loops running along the outside of the boots. 

2. Work the first 8 rounds of your Throat tight as you want the base to be narrow for a good fit. 

 

 

24. Throat Row 1 of Left Boot completed

 

 

25. Throat Row 1 of Right Boot completed

 

Throat Row 1: 1 sc in the inner loop of the next st( first sc of leveling round), place a marker in this st, 1 sc in the inner loop of each st across until you end in the st right before the marked st, 1 sc in the free loop in front of the marked st, 1 sc in the next 2 free loops. You will have a small overlap as shown in the pics 24 and 25 above.——-25sc (26 sc for sizes 11 & 12)

 

Note: You can count your Throat Rows from the free loop line that is running at the front of the shoe. 

 

Throat Row 2: Ch 1( does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in first st and each st across to end. You will end in the marked st, turn.—–25sc (26 sc for sizes 11 & 12)

 

Throat Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.—–25sc (26 sc for sizes 11 & 12)

 

Repeat Row 3 until you have a total of 8 Rows from the free loop line.

 

Throat Row 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each st across to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, turn.———-27sc (28 sc for sizes 11 & 12)

 

Throat Row 10: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.———-27sc (28 sc for sizes 11 & 12)

 

Throat Row 11: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.———29sc (30 sc for sizes 11 & 12)  

 

Throat Row 12: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st and each st across to end, turn.———29sc (30 sc for sizes 11 & 12)

 

Throat Row 13: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st across to last 3 sts, sc2tog across next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st, turn.———29sc (30 sc for sizes 11 & 12)

 

Throat Row 14: Without making a turning chain, pull up the loop on you hook to loosen it, directly work a sc in next st, 1 sc in each st across to last 4 sts, sc2tog across next 2 sts, sl st loosely into the last 2 sts. Fasten off.

26. Completed Throat for Left Boot

 

For the fur trim and adding the buttons and button loops, follow the same pattern as the smaller sizes 5 to 9 above. I have highlighted the heading in yellow so you can easily spot it. 

 

Tips for Free Crochet Boots Pattern for Adults

Do you want to make these free crochet boots non-slip? Try adding some squiggle lines with puffy paint to the soles. Another option is to sew on patches of non-skid fabric used for toddler pj’s.  You can cut two circles for just the heel of the slipper and the ball of the foot and attach them.

 

More Easy Crochet Boots and Slipper Patterns:

Quick Slipper Crochet Pattern

 1.5 Hour Chunky Crochet slipper For Women

Crochet Boots Pattern for Women(Paid Pattern)

 

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Free Crochet Boots, Arctic Boots for Women

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