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Crochet Toddler Sweater Pattern Free, Henley Sweater

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Free Crochet Toddler Sweater Pattern- includes baby sizes too. 

 

Finished crochet toddler sweater pattern in brown and cream color

 

 

This free toddler boy sweater crochet pattern is a joy to work. If you are nervous about trying a woman’s size sweater then trying a toddler-size sweater will help you get your feet wet. 

 

 

2 Finished toddler boy sweater crochet pattern in blue and brown colors

 

 

This sweater has a Raglan shaping which means the armholes are built into the yoke which makes it an easy level pattern. Once you get the hang of it, you will be able to whip it up in no time without much counting. 

 

 

Crochet Toddler Sweater in Blue

 

 

I designed this toddler crochet sweater with Basic Stitch yarn from Lion Brand and am totally in love with it. It comes in some great colors and has an amazing drape. I will be using more of it in my upcoming projects.

 

 

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The pattern runs from 0-3 months to Toddler size 3/4T. Since good boy patterns are hard to find, I hope you will add this to your collection of toddler crochet patterns. 

 

 

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Free Crochet Toddler Sweater Pattern 

You can work from the free pattern below or purchase an ad-free PDF for $3.99 here. You will receive a download link once you make payment and click “Return to Merchant”.

 

pin it for later here.

 

 

Materials

1. Worsted weight (size 4) yarn. Lion Brand Basic Stitch yarn in colors Ecru, Turquoise Heather, and Russet Heather were used for the sample crochet toddler sweaters pictured. 

2. A H (5mm) hook for the body of the sweater and a G(4mm) hook for the Ribbing 

3. Yarn needle to weave in the ends

4. 3/4”(19mm) wooden buttons. You will need 2 buttons for 0-3, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, and 3 buttons for all the bigger sizes.  

 

 

Finished Sizes of the Toddler Crochet Sweater Pattern

This sweater has been designed with 3 to 4-inch positive ease. The finished measurements are as follows:

0-3 months: 9 inches chest and 11 inches long

3-6 months: 9 1/2 inches chest and 12 inches long

6-12 months: 10 1/2 inches chest and 13 inches long

12-24 months: 11 inches chest and 14 inches long

2T: 12 inches chest and 14-1/2  inches long

3T/4T: 13 inches chest and 15 inches long

 

 

Yardage 

Each skein of Lion Brand Basic Stitch yarn is 185 yards long.

0-3 Months: 1-1/2 skein of the brown color and 70 yards of the cream.

3-6 Months: 1-1/2 skeins of the brown and 100 yards of the cream

6-12 months: 2 skeins of the brown and 1 skein of the cream. 

12-24 months: 2 skeins of the brown and 1 skein of the cream.

2T: 3 skeins of the brown and 1-1/2 skeins of the cream.

3T/4T: 3 skeins of the brown and 1-1/2 skeins of the cream.

 

 

Stitch Abbreviations

This pattern is written in US terms.

WS-Wrong Side of Sweater 

RS- Right Side of Sweater

ch-chain

sl st-slip st

sc-single crochet

dc– double crochet

cl– cluster (explained below)

YO– yarn over

sp-space

 

 

Gauge 

With H(5mm) hook, 13-1/2 dc sts= 4 inches

 

 

Stitch Explanations

Cluster (cl): YO, insert your hook into the st or chain space indicated and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO again and insert hook into the same st or chain space, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through the remaining 3 loops on your hook.

 

hdc2tog: It is a hdc decrease worked across 2 sts to join them into 1. YO, insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop, 3 loops on your hook, YO and pull up a loop in the next st, YO and pull through all the 5 loops on your hook.

 

sc2tog: It is a sc decrease worked across 2 sts to join them into one. Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, YO, and pull through all the 3 loops on your hook. 

 

front post half double crochet(fphdc) and back post half double crochet(bphdc): You can see a tutorial on front and back post double crochet here. The front and back post hdc sts are worked inserting the hook in the same way. Just replace the dc sts with hdc sts.

 

Related Sweater Patterns

Crochet baby sweater for beginners

Toddler crochet cardigan pattern

How to crochet a baby Sweater with easy shaping

Bentley Crochet Baby Boy Sweater

 

 

 

Free Toddler Sweater Crochet Pattern

Pattern Notes

1. Sizes 0-3 months and 3-6 months are grouped together. Sizes 6-12 and 12-24 months are grouped together and size 2T and 3/4T are grouped together. The headings are color-coded for each group. 

 

2. For convenience, we will be referring to the brown sweater and calling the yarn colors brown and cream. 

 

 

0-3 and 3-6 MONTHS

YOKE- Both Sizes

 

Yoke taking shape of the Toddler crochet sweater

1. Yoke taking shape

 

Pattern Notes

The yoke for both the 0-3 and 3-6 months starts with the same number of chains and follows the same pattern except for the last couple of rows. 

 

Row 1: Ch 51 with brown yarn, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (the beginning ch 3 counts as the first dc here), 1 dc in next 5 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch, 1 dc in next 7 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch, 1 dc in next 17 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next, 1 dc in next 7 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch, 1 dc in remaining 7 chs, place a marker on this side of the fabric to indicate the RS of the crochet toddler sweater, turn.——–45 dc + 8 cl+8 chs

 

 

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc here and for the rest of the yoke rows), 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 7 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 9 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 19 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 9 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 7 sts, 1 dc on top of beginning ch 3, turn. ——-53 dc + 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 8 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 11 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 21 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 11 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 9 sts, turn. ——-61 dc + 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 9 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 13 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 23 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 13 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 10 sts, turn. ——-69 dc + 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 10 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 15 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 25 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 15 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 11 sts, turn. ——-77 dc + 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 11 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 27 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 12 sts, turn. ——-85 dc + 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

0-3 Months Only

Armhole formed

2. Armhole formed by skipping stitches

 

 

Note: In the next row, we will close the chest and skip stitches to form the armholes. See pic 2 above.

 

Row 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 12 sts, 1 sc in the ch-2 space between the clusters, sk all the 19 sts up to the next ch-2 loop (pic 2), 1 sc in the next ch-2 space between clusters, 1 sc in next 29 sts, 1 sc in the next ch-2 space, sk next 19 sts up to the next ch-2 loop, 1 sc in the ch-2 space, 1 sc in next 13 sts, DO NOT turn and DO NOT fasten off. ——-59 sc

 

 

0-3 Months Button Band

Shows button band worked on left

3. Button band is worked on left and buttonhole band on the right as shown

 

Pattern Notes

The button band is worked from the bottom up along the left side of the front opening. 

 

 

Row 1: Ch 1 at the corner where you have your working yarn and work along the edge of the opening, evenly distribute sc sts all the way up to the neck, and turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3 & 4: Repeat Row 2 and fasten off. 

 

 

0-3 Months Buttonhole Band

The buttonhole band is worked on the right side of the front opening from the neck downwards.

 

 

Row 1: Sl st to the top right corner of the front opening at the neck, evenly distribute sc sts all the way down and turn. 

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st until 1/2 the length of the band is covered, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1, 1 sc in remaining sts to end, turn.

 

 

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each st and ch across to end. Fasten off. Jump to Sleeves.

 

 

3-6 Months Only-Yoke Continued

Row 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 12 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 19 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 29 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 19 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 13 sts, turn. ——-93 dc + 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Note: In the next row, we will close the chest and skip stitches to form the armholes. See pic 2 above.

 

 

Row 8: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 13 sts, 1 sc in the next ch-2 space between clusters, sk next 21 sts up to the next ch-2 loop as shown in pic 2, 1 sc in the next ch-2 space, 1 sc in the next 31 sts, 1 sc in the next ch-2 space, sk 21 sts up to the next ch-2 loop, 1 sc in the ch-2 space, 1 sc in the next 14 sts, fasten off. ——-63 sc

 

 

3-6 Months Button Band

Pattern Notes

1. First turn the sweater inside out so that the RS of the fabric is showing. Both the button band and the buttonhole band is worked on the RS. 

 

2. The button band is worked from the bottom up along the left side of the front opening as shown in pic 3 above. 

 

Row 1: Sl st to the left bottom corner of the front opening and work upwards along the edge of the opening, evenly distribute sc sts all the way up to the neck and turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch 1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3 & 4: Repeat Row 2 and fasten off. 

 

 

3- 6 Months Buttonhole Band

The buttonhole band is worked on the right side of the front opening from the neck downwards.

 

 

Row 1: Sl st to the top right corner of the front opening at the neck, evenly distribute sc sts all the way down and turn. 

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st until 1/2 the length of the band is covered, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1, 1 sc in each remaining st to end, turn.

 

 

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each st and ch across to end. Fasten off. 

 

 

Sleeves- Both Sizes

Pattern Notes

1. The stitch count for size 3-6 months is given in brackets in the order 0-3 months (3-6 months). 

2. The sleeves are worked directly onto the sweater. 

 

 

Ch2, dc at the armpit and dc in the ch space

4. Start Round 1 of the sleeve as shown

 

Round 1: Sl st to the base of the armhole, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 dc at the same point in the armhole, 1 dc in adjacent ch space or gap, 1 dc in next 19 (21) sts, 1 dc in the next ch space or gap near the base of the armhole, 1 dc at the base of the armhole, sl st to first dc, turn.———23 (25) sts

 

 

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc here and for the rest of the sleeve rounds), 1 dc in the same st as beginning ch2, 1 dc in each remaining st across to end, sl st to 1st dc, turn.——-23 (25) sts

 

 

Repeat Round 2 until your sleeve is 4.5 (5)inches long from the base of the armhole.

 

 

Next Round: Ch 2 (does not count as a hdc here), 1 hdc in the same st as beginning ch 2, 1 hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog across last 2 sts,  sl st to 1st hdc, turn.——-22 (24) sts

 

Note: The last 2 rounds should be worked on the RS of your sleeve, so if you are on the RS, work on the same side. If you are on the wrong side, turn and work the last 2 rounds on the RS.

 

 

Ribbing Round 1: Switch to a 4mm hook, ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in the next st, *(1 bphdc in next st, 1 fphdc in next st), repeat from * until you end with a fphdc in the last st, sl st to top of beginning ch 2, do not turn.——22 (24) sts

 

 

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in next fphdc, *(1 bphdc in next bphdc, 1 fphdc in next fphdc), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, fasten off. 

 

 

Collar-Both Sizes

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5. Work the first round of collar as shown

 

Row 1: Switch back to the H(5mm) hook, sl st to the top of the button band between the 3rd and 4th row of the band, about 3/4 inch away from the edge, 1 sc in the same point,  1 sc on top of the 4th row of the band, distribute sc sts, one for each st at the neck and each time you reach a ch space, sc2tog across the space and the next point. Continue like this and stop at the top of the buttonhole band between the 3rd and the 4th row, about 3/4th inch away from the edge, turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1 and each st across to end, turn. 

 

 

Keep repeating Row 2 until the collar is as high as you want and fasten off. I worked a total of  5 sc rows for the collar. 

 

Finishing the Collar-Both Sizes 

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6. Sl stitch along the edge as shown to finish the collar

 

 

Starting from the bottom left corner of the button band, sl st all the way up along the side of the button band, continue to sl st along the edge of the collar and down along the edge of the buttonhole band all the way to the bottom of it. Fasten off. 

 

 

Body of the Sweater-Both Sizes

Pattern Notes

1. The stitch count for size 3-6 months is given in brackets in the order 0-3 months (3-6 months). 

 

2. We change colors every round for the body but we do not fasten off at the end of every round. We just drop the yarn to pick up later.

 

3. The body is also worked with the H (5mm) hook and we will switch to the smaller hook only for the bottom ribbing.

 

4. For the Houndstooth pattern, the cream color rounds are always worked on the inside of the crochet sweater and start with a sc st. 

 

5. The brown color rounds are always worked on the outside of the crochet sweater and start with a dc st. 

 

 

Round 1: With brown yarn, sl st under the left armhole on the RS and work toward the front opening, 1 sc in the same st as sl st, 1 sc in each st until you reach the button band, overlap the buttonhole band over the button band and work 4 sc going through both the layers, 1 sc in the junction of the band and sweater, 1 sc in each st across to end, sl st to first sc, pull cream color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the brown yarn until the brown loop disappears, ch 1 with cream yarn,  turn.—–64 (68) sc

 

 

Round 2 (cream color Round): 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 dc in next st, *(1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st), repeat from * and  after your last dc, make sure to bring the brown yarn inside the sweater and sl st to first sc, pull brown color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the cream yarn until the cream loop disappears, and ch 1 with brown yarn, turn.—–64 (68) sts

 

 

Round 3 (brown color Round): 1 dc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next st, *(1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * and  after your last sc, make sure to bring the cream yarn inside the sweater and sl st to first dc, pull cream color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the brown yarn until the brown loop disappears, ch 1 with cream yarn, turn.—–64 (68) sts

 

 

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until your sweater is approximately 10 (11)inches long and you end in a brown round. Then switch to a smaller 4mm hook and make the bottom ribbing below. 

 

 

Bottom Ribbing-Both Sizes

Note: All the rounds of the bottom ribbing are worked on the RS with the brown color yarn. You can fasten off the cream color now. 

 

Ribbing Round 1: With the smaller 4mm hook, ch 2 (counts as a bhdc), 1 fphdc in next st, *(1 bphdc in next st, 1 fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end until you end with a fphdc, sl st to top of beginning ch 2, Do NOT turn.

 

 

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in next fphdc, *(1 bphdc in next bphdc, 1 fphdc in next fphdc), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, fasten off. 

 

 

Finishing-Both Sizes

1. Weave in any tails left.

2. Sew on the buttons corresponding to the buttonholes. 

 

 

6-12 and 12-24 MONTHS

YOKE- Both Sizes

 

Yoke taking shape of the Toddler crochet sweater

7. Yoke taking shape

 

Row 1: Ch 56 with brown yarn, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (the beginning ch 3 counts as a dc), 1 dc in next 6 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch, 1 dc in next 8 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next, 1 dc in next 18 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch, 1 dc in next 8 chs, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next, 1 dc in remaining 8 chs, place a marker on this side of the fabric to indicate the right side,  turn.———50 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

 

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc here and in the rest of the yoke rows), 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 8 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 10 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 20 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 10 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 8 sts, 1 dc on top of beginning ch 3, turn.———58 dc+ 8 Cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 9 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 12 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 22 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 12 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in remaining 10 sts, turn.———66 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

 

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 10 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 14 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 24 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 14 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in remaining 11 sts, turn.———74 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

 

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 11 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 16 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 26 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 16 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in remaining 12 sts, turn.———82 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

 

Row 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 12 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 18 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 28 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 18 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in remaining 13 sts, turn.———90 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

 

Row 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 13 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 20 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 30 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 20 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in remaining 14 sts, turn.———98 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

 

Row 8: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 14 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 22 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 32 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 22 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in remaining 15 sts, turn.———106 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

 

6-12 Months Only

 

Armhole formed

8. Armhole formed by skipping stitches

 

 

Note: In the next row, we will close the chest and skip sts to form the armholes. See pic 8 above.

Row 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in the next 15 sts, bring the next two ch-2 loops together and work just 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces to join them. There will be 24 sts skipped to form the armhole now as shown in pic 8. 1 sc in the next 34 sts, bring the next two ch-2 loops together and work 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces at once, 1 sc in the next 16 sts, DO NOT turn and DO NOT fasten off. ——-68 sc

 

 

6-12 Months Button Band

Shows button band worked on left

9. Work button band on left and buttonhole band on the right as shown

 

 

Pattern Notes

The button band is worked from the bottom up along the left side of the front opening. 

 

Row 1: Ch 1 at the corner where you have your working yarn and work along the edge of the opening, evenly distribute sc sts all the way up to the neck, and turn.

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

Row 3 & 4: Repeat Row 2 and fasten off. 

 

 

6-12 Months Buttonhole Band

The buttonhole band is worked on the right side of the front opening from the neck downwards as shown in pic 9 above.

 

Row 1: Sl st to the top right corner of the front opening at the neck, evenly distribute sc sts all the way down and turn. 

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st until 1/2 the length of the band is covered, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1, 1 sc in remaining sts to end, turn.

 

 

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each st, and ch across to end. Fasten off. Jump to Sleeves.

 

 

12-24 Months Yoke Continued

 

Row 9: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc here and in the following rows), 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 15 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 24 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 34 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 24 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in remaining 16 sts, turn.———114 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 chs

 

In the next row, we will close the chest and skip sts to form the armholes. See pic 8 above. 

Row 10: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 16 sts, bring the next two ch-2 loops together and work just 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces at once to join, there will be 26 sts skipped to form the armhole now as shown in pic 8, 1 sc in the next 36 sts, bring the next two ch-2 loops together and work 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces at once, 1 sc in next 17 sts, fasten off. ——-72 sc

 

 

12-24 Months Button Band

Pattern Notes

1. First turn the sweater inside out so that the RS of the fabric is showing. Both the button band and the buttonhole band is worked on the RS. 

 

2. The button band is worked from the bottom up along the left side of the front opening as shown in pic 9 above.

 

 

Row 1: Sl st to the left bottom corner of the front opening and work upwards along the edge of the opening, evenly distribute sc sts all the way up to the neck and turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch 1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3 & 4: Repeat Row 2 and fasten off. 

 

 

12-24 Months Buttonhole Band

The buttonhole band is worked on the right side of the front opening from the neck downwards as shown in pic 9 above.

 

 

Row 1: Sl st to the top right corner of the front opening at the neck, evenly distribute sc sts all the way down and turn. 

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st until you are a 1/4 inch before the middle of the band, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st to last 3 sts, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in the last 2 sts, turn.

 

 

Note: Now position the buttons on top of the buttonholes and see if you like how they look. If not, unravel and reposition the buttonholes to your liking. You can use markers to indicate their position before you start. Just take care not to take into account the last st at the bottom of the band as you will be working the first round of the body into it. 

 

 

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each st and ch across to end. Fasten off. 

 

 

Sleeves- Both Sizes

Pattern Notes

1. The stitch count for size 12-24 months is given in brackets in the order 6-12 months (12-24 months). 

2. The sleeves are worked directly onto the sweater. 

 

 

ch 2 at armpit and cluster in ch space

10. Start the first round of sleeves as shown

 

 

Round 1: Sl st to the base of the armhole, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 cl in adjacent ch space or gap, 1 dc in next 24 (26) sts, 1 cl in the next ch space or gap near the base of the armhole,  sl st to first cl, turn.———26 (28) sts

 

 

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc here and for the rest of the sleeve rounds), 1 dc in the same st as beginning ch2, 1 dc in each remaining st across to end, sl st to 1st dc, turn.——-26 (28) sts

 

 

Repeat Round 2 until your sleeve is 6 (6)inches long from the base of the armhole.

 

 

Next Round: Ch 2 (does not count as a hdc here), 1 hdc in the same st as beginning ch 2, 1 hdc in each st across to end, sl st to 1st hdc, turn.——-26 (28) sts

 

 

Note: The ribbing rounds should be worked on the RS of your sleeve, so if you are on the RS, work on the same side. If you are on the wrong side, turn and work the Ribbing rounds on the RS.

 

 

Ribbing Round 1: Switch to a 4mm hook, ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in the next st, *(1 bphdc in next st, 1 fphdc in next st), repeat from * until you end with a fphdc in the last st, sl st to top of beginning ch 2, do not turn.——26 (28) sts

 

 

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in next fphdc, *(1 bphdc in next bphdc, 1 fphdc in next fphdc), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2. Fasten off if you are working the 6-12 months. For 12-24 months, repeat this round one more time without turning your work and fasten off. 

 

 

Collar-Both Sizes

"

11. Work the first row of the collar as shown.

 

 

Row 1: Switch back to the H(5mm) hook, sl st to the top of the button band between the 3rd and 4th row of the band, about 3/4 inch away from the edge, 1 sc in the same point,  1 sc on top of the 4th row of the band, distribute sc sts, one for each st at the neck and each time you reach a ch space, sc2tog across the space and the next point. Continue like this and stop at the top of the buttonhole band between the 3rd and the 4th row, about 3/4th inch away from the edge, turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1 and each st across to end, turn. 

 

 

Keep repeating Row 2 until the collar is as high as you want and fasten off. I worked a total of  6 sc rows for the collar. 

 

 

Finishing the Collar-Both Sizes 

 

"

12. Slip stitch to finish the collar as shown

 

Starting from the bottom left corner of the button band, sl st all the way up along the side of the button band, continue to sl st along the edge of the collar and down along the edge of the buttonhole band all the way to the bottom of it. Fasten off. 

 

 

Body of the Sweater-Both Sizes

Pattern Notes

1. The stitch count for size 12-24 months is given in brackets in the order 6-12 months (12-24 months). 

2. We change colors every round for the body but we do not fasten off at the end of every round. We just drop the yarn to pick up later.

3. The body is also worked with the H (5mm) hook and we will switch to the smaller hook only for the bottom ribbing.

4. For the Houndstooth pattern, the cream color rounds are always worked on the inside of the crochet sweater and start with a sc st. 

5. The brown color rounds are always worked on the outside of the crochet sweater and start with a dc st. 

 

 

Round 1: With brown yarn, sl st under the left armhole on the RS and work toward the front opening, 1 sc in the same st as sl st, 1 sc in each st until you reach the button band, overlap the buttonhole band over the button band and work 4 sc going through both the layers, 1 sc in the junction of the band and sweater, 1 sc in each st across until you reach the midback, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st across to end, sl st to first sc, pull cream color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the brown yarn until the brown loop disappears, ch 1 with cream yarn,  turn.—–74 (78) sc

 

 

Round 2 (cream color Round): 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 dc in next st, *(1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st), repeat from * and  after your last dc, make sure to bring the brown yarn inside the sweater and sl st to first sc, pull brown color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the cream yarn until the cream loop disappears, and ch 1 with brown yarn, turn.—–74 (78) sts

 

 

Round 3 (brown color Round): 1 dc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next st, *(1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * and  after your last sc, make sure to bring the cream yarn inside the sweater and sl st to first dc, pull cream color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the brown yarn until the brown loop disappears, ch 1 with cream yarn, turn.—–74 (78) sts

 

 

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until your sweater is approximately 11-1/2 (12-1/2)inches long and you end in a brown round. Then switch to a smaller 4mm hook and make the bottom ribbing below. 

 

 

Bottom Ribbing-Both Sizes

Note: All the rounds of the bottom ribbing are worked on the RS with the brown color yarn. You can fasten off the cream color now. 

 

Ribbing Round 1: With the smaller 4mm hook, ch 2 (counts as a bhdc), 1 fphdc in next st, *(1 bphdc in next st, 1 fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end until you end with a fphdc, sl st to top of beginning ch 2, Do NOT turn.

 

 

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in next fphdc, *(1 bphdc in next bphdc, 1 fphdc in next fphdc), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, Do NOT turn.

 

 

Repeat the above round one more time and fasten off. 

 

 

Finishing-Both Sizes

1. Weave in any tails left.

2. Sew on the buttons corresponding to the buttonholes. 

 

 

2T & 3/4T

YOKE – Both Sizes

Yoke taking shape of the Toddler crochet sweater

13. Yoke taking shape

 

Row 1: Ch 59 with brown yarn, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (beginning ch 3 counts as a dc), 1 dc in next 6 ch, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch, 1 dc in next 9 ch, (cl, ch 2, cl), 1 dc in next 19 ch, (cl, ch 2, cl), 1 dc in next 9 ch, (cl, ch 2, cl), 1 dc in next 8 ch, place a marker on this side of the fabric to indicate the right side, turn.——-53 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc here and in the rest of the yoke rows), 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 8 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 11 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 21 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 11 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 8 sts, 1 dc on top of beginning ch 3, turn.———61 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 9 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 13 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 23 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 13 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 10 sts, turn.———69 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 10 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 15 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 25 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 15 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 11 sts, turn.———77 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 11 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 27 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 12 sts, turn.———85 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 12 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 19 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 29 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 19 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 13 sts, turn.———93 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 13 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 21 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 31 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 21 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 14 sts, turn.———101 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 8: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 14 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 23 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 33 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 23 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 15 sts, turn.———109 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Row 9: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 15 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 25 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 35 sts, ( cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 25 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 16 sts, turn.———117 dc+ 8 Cl+ 8 ch

 

 

Size 2T Only

Armhole formed

14. Armholes formed by skipping stitches

 

 

In the next row, we will close the chest and skip sts to form armholes. See pic 14 above.

 

Row 10: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 16 sts, bring the next two ch-2 loops together and work 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces at once to join them, there will be 27 sts skipped to form the armhole now as shown in pic 14, 1 more sc into the second ch space, 1 sc in next 37 sts, 1 sc in next ch-2 space, bring the next ch-2 loop close to this ch-2 loop and work 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces at once, 1 sc in next 17 sts, fasten off.———75 sc

 

 

2T Button Band

Shows button band worked on left

15. Work the button band and buttonhole band along the front opening as shown

 

 

Pattern Notes

1. First turn the sweater inside out so that the RS of the fabric is showing. Both the button band and the buttonhole band is worked on the RS. 

2. The button band is worked from the bottom up along the left side of the front opening. 

 

 

Row 1: Sl st to the left bottom corner of the front opening and work upwards along the edge of the opening, evenly distribute sc sts all the way up to the neck and turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch 1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3 & 4: Repeat Row 2 and fasten off. 

 

 

2T Buttonhole Band

The buttonhole band is worked on the right side of the front opening from the neck downwards.

 

Row 1: Sl st to the top right corner of the front opening at the neck, evenly distribute sc sts all the way down and turn. 

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st until you are a 1/4 inch before the middle of the band, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st to last 3 sts, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in the last 2 sts, turn.

 

 

Note: Now position the buttons on top of the buttonholes and see if you like how they look. If not, unravel and reposition the buttonholes to your liking. You can use markers to indicate their position before you start. Just take care not to take into account the last st at the bottom of the band as you will be working the first round of the body into it. 

 

 

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each st and ch across to end. Fasten off. Jump to Sleeves.

 

 

Size 3T/4T Only

Row 10: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 16 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 27 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 37 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 27 sts, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 17 sts, turn.———125 dc+ 8 cl+ 8 ch

 

 

In the next row, we will close the chest and skip sts to form armholes. See pic 14 above.

 

 

Row 11: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next 17 sts, bring the next two ch-2 loops together and work just 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces at once to join them, there will be 29 sts skipped to form the armhole now as shown in pic 14, work 1 more sc into the second ch space, 1 sc in next 39 sts, 1 sc in next ch-2 space, bring the next ch-2 loop closer and work 1 sc into both the ch-2 spaces at once, 1 sc in next 18 sts. DO NOT turn and DO NOT fasten off.———79 sc

 

 

3T/4T Button Band

Pattern Notes

The button band is worked from the bottom up along the left side of the front opening as shown in pic 15 above.

 

 

Row 1: Ch 1 at the corner where you have your working yarn and work along the edge of the opening, evenly distribute sc sts all the way up to the neck, and turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3 & 4: Repeat Row 2 and fasten off. 

 

 

3T/4T Buttonhole Band

The buttonhole band is worked on the right side of the front opening from the neck downwards as shown in pic 15 above.

 

 

Row 1: Sl st to the top right corner of the front opening at the neck, evenly distribute sc sts all the way down and turn. 

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each remaining st across to end, turn.

 

 

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st until you are a 1/4 inch before the middle of the band, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in each st to last 3 sts, ch 1 for buttonhole, sk 1 st, 1 sc in the last 2 sts, turn.

 

 

Note: Now position the buttons on top of the buttonholes and see if you like how they look. If not, unravel and reposition the buttonholes to your liking. You can use markers to indicate their position before you start. Just take care not to take into account the last st at the bottom of the band as you will be working the first round of the body into it. 

 

 

Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in the same st as beginning ch1, 1 sc in each st, and ch across to end. Fasten off. 

 

 

Sleeves- Both Sizes

Pattern Notes

1. The stitch count for size 3/4T months is given in brackets in the order 2T (3/4T). 

2. The sleeves are worked directly onto the sweater. 

 

Ch 1 at armpit and dc in chain space

16. Start the first round of sleeves as shown

 

 

Round 1: Sl st to the base of the armhole, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 dc in adjacent ch space or gap, 1 dc in next 27 (29) sts, 1 cl in the next ch space or gap near the base of the armhole,  sl st to first dc, turn.———29 (31) sts

 

 

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc here and for the rest of the sleeve rounds), 1 dc in the same st as beginning ch2, 1 dc in each remaining st across to end, sl st to 1st dc, turn.——-29 (31) sts

 

 

Repeat Round 2 until your sleeve is 7-1/2 (8)inches long from the base of the armhole.

 

 

Next Round: Ch 2 (does not count as a hdc here), 1 hdc in the same st as beginning ch 2, 1 hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog across last 2 sts,  sl st to 1st hdc, turn.——-28 (30) sts

 

 

Note: The ribbing rounds should be worked on the RS of your sleeve, so if you are on the RS, work on the same side. If you are on the wrong side, turn and work the Ribbing rounds on the RS.

 

Ribbing Round 1: Switch to a 4mm hook, ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in the next st, *(1 bphdc in next st, 1 fphdc in next st), repeat from * until you end with a fphdc in the last st, sl st to top of beginning ch 2, do not turn.——28 (30) sts

 

 

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in next fphdc, *(1 bphdc in next bphdc, 1 fphdc in next fphdc), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2. Do not turn.

 

 

Ribbing Rounds 3&4: Repeat Round 2 above and fasten off.

 

 

Collar-Both Sizes

"

17. Work the first round of collar as shown

 

 

Row 1: Switch back to the H(5mm) hook, sl st to the top of the button band between the 3rd and 4th row of the band, about 3/4 inch away from the edge, 1 sc in the same point,  1 sc on top of the 4th row of the band, distribute sc sts, one for each st at the neck and each time you reach a ch space, sc2tog across the space and the next point. Continue like this and stop at the top of the buttonhole band between the 3rd and the 4th row, about 3/4th inch away from the edge, turn.

 

 

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in same st as ch 1 and each st across to end, turn. 

 

 

Keep repeating Row 2 until the collar is as high as you want and fasten off. I worked a total of  7 sc rows for the collar. 

 

Finishing the Collar-Both Sizes 

"

18. Slip stitch to finish the collar as shown.

 

 

Starting from the bottom left corner of the button band, sl st all the way up along the side of the button band, continue to sl st along the edge of the collar and down along the edge of the buttonhole band all the way to the bottom of it. Fasten off. 

 

 

Body of the Sweater-Both Sizes

Pattern Notes

1. The stitch count for size 2T is given in brackets in the order 2T (3/4T). 

2. We change colors every round for the body but we do not fasten off at the end of every round. We just drop the yarn to pick up later.

3. The body is also worked with the H (5mm) hook and we will switch to the smaller hook only for the bottom ribbing.

4. For the Houndstooth pattern, the cream color rounds are always worked on the inside of the crochet sweater and start with a sc st. 

5. The brown color rounds are always worked on the outside of the crochet sweater and start with a dc st. 

 

 

Round 1: With brown yarn, sl st under the left armhole on the RS and work toward the front opening, 1 sc in the same st as sl st, 1 sc in each st until you reach the button band, overlap the buttonhole band over the button band and work 4 sc going through both the layers, 1 sc in the junction of the band and sweater, 1 sc in each st across to end, sl st to first sc, pull cream color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the brown yarn until the brown loop disappears, ch 1 with cream yarn, turn.—–80 (84) sc

 

 

Round 2 (cream color Round): 1 sc in the same st as ch 1, 1 dc in next st, *(1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st), repeat from * and  after your last dc, make sure to bring the brown yarn inside the sweater and sl st to first sc, pull brown color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the cream yarn until the cream loop disappears, and ch 1 with brown yarn, turn.—–80 (84) sts

 

 

Round 3 (brown color Round): 1 dc in the same st as ch 1, 1 sc in next st, *(1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * and  after your last sc, make sure to bring the cream yarn inside the sweater and sl st to first dc, pull cream color yarn through the loop on your hook, tug the brown yarn until the brown loop disappears, ch 1 with cream yarn, turn.—–80 (84) sts

 

 

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until your sweater is approximately 12 (13)inches long and you end in a brown round. Then switch to a smaller 4mm hook and make the bottom ribbing below. 

 

 

Bottom Ribbing-Both Sizes

Note: All the rounds of the bottom ribbing are worked on the RS with the brown color yarn. You can fasten off the cream color now. 

 

 

Ribbing Round 1: With the smaller 4mm hook, ch 2 (counts as a bhdc), 1 fphdc in next st, *(1 bphdc in next st, 1 fphdc in next st), repeat from * to end until you end with a fphdc, sl st to top of beginning ch 2, Do NOT turn.

 

 

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as a bphdc), 1 fphdc in next fphdc, *(1 bphdc in next bphdc, 1 fphdc in next fphdc), repeat from * to end, sl st to top of beginning ch-2, Do NOT turn.

 

 

Repeat the above round 2 more times and fasten off. 

 

 

Finishing-Both Sizes

1. Weave in any tails left.

2. Sew on the buttons corresponding to the buttonholes. 

 

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